tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2092531783038370892024-03-28T20:27:37.048-07:00Rutgers Master Gardeners of Burlington County BlogBCMGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09749821178056288107noreply@blogger.comBlogger139125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-34241131011149508102024-03-28T10:26:00.000-07:002024-03-28T10:30:00.497-07:00Spring Invasive - Lesser Celandine - A Spring time Menace<div><br /></div><div>As the winter chill begins to thaw and the first signs of spring emerge, one of spring's ephemeral flowers makes its debut: the lesser celandine (<i>Ficaria verna </i><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(64, 64, 64); color: #404040; font-family: DINCompPro;">previously </span><em style="box-sizing: inherit; caret-color: rgb(64, 64, 64); color: #404040; font-family: DINCompPro;">Ranunculus ficaria</em><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(64, 64, 64); color: #404040; font-family: DINCompPro;"> L.</span>). Often heralded as a harbinger of spring, this petite yet vibrant plant holds a unfavorable place in the hearts of nature enthusiasts and gardeners alike. <div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b><span style="font-family: arial;">Botanical Characteristics: </span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Belonging to the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae), lesser celandine is a low-growing perennial herb native to Europe, western Asia, and northern Africa. It typically blooms from March to May, carpeting woodland floors, meadows, and riverbanks with a burst of golden-yellow blossoms. Each flower consists of eight to twelve glossy petals surrounding a bright yellow center, creating a striking contrast against the lush green foliage. </div></div><div><br /></div><div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" style="color: #222222; font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);"><br /></span></span><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSeAtJaLE5ji971Q26SrWlk8_Nn0gEhQpwyFmlCmtMDrH_5ab9MtCOIIspBhtO56l8qJoQJmqA-XWXBd7RnzlAxpbbwslJu8k20Jex7J2-7_86pfkoV7CtBNlibK79mQaKy8ff0BWuSDBnUgR5Y_g1N0f4DZBFG_2fiJqkkw82s3rQhXUYPkOmKWRr4E/s1185/LesserCelandine1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1185" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSeAtJaLE5ji971Q26SrWlk8_Nn0gEhQpwyFmlCmtMDrH_5ab9MtCOIIspBhtO56l8qJoQJmqA-XWXBd7RnzlAxpbbwslJu8k20Jex7J2-7_86pfkoV7CtBNlibK79mQaKy8ff0BWuSDBnUgR5Y_g1N0f4DZBFG_2fiJqkkw82s3rQhXUYPkOmKWRr4E/s320/LesserCelandine1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(105, 105, 105); color: dimgrey; font-size: 12px; font-style: italic;"><span style="font-family: DINCompPro;">Lesser Celandine, a.k.a. Fig buttercup (Photo: David Nicholls, NatureSpot.org National Biodiversity Network Trust [NBN Trust], UK)</span><br /><b><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></b></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Ecological Impact: </b></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Despite its delicate appearance, lesser celandine plays a crucial role in undermining biodiversity. In its introduced range, it <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #393b3e;">arrives very early in the spring, t</span></span><span style="background-color: white;">his gives the invasive plant an advantage over native ephemerals such as mayapple or Dutchman’s breeches that are still mostly dormant in those temperatures. It s</span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(57, 59, 62); color: #393b3e;">preads out over the ground, creating a thick carpet, making it virtually impossible for native understory plants to grow and survive. </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #393b3e;">Native wildflowers and pollinators are particularly negatively impacted by this invasive species</span></span>. </span></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdTmcQwv7CLlWN4gf7DzirkhWQ0jj6LDQMv7BcO1SXh1Mc8oqy45O8VLoGwiwH3k-C9Mx8bvsEqkatbnRLCTLmakTPY1V0JeH1NhfYt9CVwjbRr4Ze_fuLj_i-RW97IcDnhuhecYI9BaxpUxIY3zK9vx2xQW3n_gGeULmbZDoy9lVbGCW2KsJd-jNUVE/s1362/Screen%20Shot%202019-04-15%20at%2011.44.22%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1216" data-original-width="1362" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPdTmcQwv7CLlWN4gf7DzirkhWQ0jj6LDQMv7BcO1SXh1Mc8oqy45O8VLoGwiwH3k-C9Mx8bvsEqkatbnRLCTLmakTPY1V0JeH1NhfYt9CVwjbRr4Ze_fuLj_i-RW97IcDnhuhecYI9BaxpUxIY3zK9vx2xQW3n_gGeULmbZDoy9lVbGCW2KsJd-jNUVE/w291-h261/Screen%20Shot%202019-04-15%20at%2011.44.22%20AM.png" width="291" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p dir="ltr" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(57, 59, 62); color: #393b3e; font-family: "Ringside Regular A", "Ringside Regular B", sans-serif; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px 0px 20px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Map of Lesser Celandine’s invasive range in the United States and Canada</i></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(57, 59, 62); color: #393b3e; font-family: "Ringside Regular A", "Ringside Regular B", sans-serif; line-height: 1.5; margin: 0px 0px 20px;"><span style="background-color: white;">Source: </span><a href="https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=RAFI" style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; color: #008294; font-weight: 700; text-decoration-color: rgb(51, 122, 183); text-decoration-thickness: 2px; text-decoration: none; text-underline-offset: 2px; transition: color 200ms;">https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=RAFI</a></p></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Cultural and Folklore Significance: </b></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Throughout history, lesser celandine has been intertwined with various cultural beliefs and folklore. In ancient Greece, it was associated with the god of love, Eros, and was believed to have the power to attract affection. In Celtic mythology, it was considered a symbol of regeneration and renewal, often appearing in springtime celebrations. In Christian tradition, the lesser celandine is sometimes known as “pilewort” due to its traditional use in treating piles or hemorrhoids. Legend has it that the plant’s knobby tubers, resembling piles, were thought to possess healing properties. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Garden Cultivation and Management: </b></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Gardeners should avoid incorporating lesser celandine into their landscapes, because of its vigorous growth habit. <span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Controlling lesser celandine can be challenging due to its ability to spread rapidly. Here are some methods to control it:</span></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Hand-pulling: Remove lesser celandine by hand, making sure to remove the entire plant including the tubers. This is most effective when the soil is moist, making it easier to pull out the roots.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Mulching: Apply a thick layer of mulch, such as wood chips or straw, to smother lesser celandine and prevent it from receiving sunlight.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Herbicides: Selective herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr can be effective in controlling lesser celandine. </span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: red;"><b>Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when using herbicides.</b></span></span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Repeat treatments: Since lesser celandine can regrow from small root fragments, it may be necessary to repeat treatments multiple times to completely eradicate it.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Plant competition: Planting competitive native species in the area can help suppress the growth of lesser </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Celandine</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">.</span></li></ul></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34);"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222;">Remember to combine methods for the most effective control of lesser celandine, and be persistent in your efforts to prevent its spread.</span><br /></span><div><br /></div><div>Despite its allure, it’s important to exercise caution and not introduce lesser celandine to a garden setting. In New Jersey, where it is not native, the plant can become invasive, outcompeting native species and disrupting delicate ecosystems. Therefore, it’s crucial to consider alternative native plants that offer similar benefits without posing a threat to the environment. </div></div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><u>Additional Information</u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://npsnj.org/native-plants/plant-lists/" target="_blank">Native Plants of New Jersey - New Jersey Native Plant Society</a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lesser-celandine/" target="_blank">Lesser Celandine - University of Maryland Extension</a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://plants.sc.egov.usda.gov/home/plantProfile?symbol=RAFI" target="_blank">Lesser Celandine - USDA Plant Database</a><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /></div><p> <br /></p></div></div>BCMGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09749821178056288107noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-13939747604204013272024-03-26T04:05:00.000-07:002024-03-28T10:31:39.885-07:00Spring Weeds: Deadnettle and Henbit. What's the difference? <span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Its spring and spring plants are beginning to flower. Have you ever notice the little purple/pink flowering plants that appear in your gardener on your walks? They are probably two of the most common spring weeds found in gardens: deadnettle or henbit. How can you tell them apart?</span><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Deadnettle or purple deadnettle and henbit are often mistaken for each other. Once you know what to look for they are easy to differentiate. First some background. In some of the literature you will see these plants referred to as purple deadnettle(<i>Lamium purpureum</i>) and henbit deadnettle (<i>Lamium amplexicaule</i>). Unlike some other nettles, these deadnettles do not sting. In other words it is a "<b>dead</b>" nettle. The common name henbit comes from observations that chickens like to eat it.</span><br />
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<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Deadnettle and henbit are winter annuals. Both plants germinate in the fall and resume growth in the spring as the temperature rises, they set seed and then die in the late spring or early summer.</span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">Square (quadrangular) stems</div>
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Purple deadnettle and henbit are members of the Laminaceae (also Labiatae) mint family. There are over 250 genera of mints and approximately 7000 species. Mints range in size from small herbaceous plants like henbit and purple deadnettle to trees. There are certain characteristics that are common to all mints:</span><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Square stems</li><li>Opposite, fragrant leaves</li><li>Bilabiate flowers </li><li>Flowers ovary is segmented in four lobes</li></ul><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Purple deadnettle (on the left) and henbit (on the right) have square stems which are a common identification characteristic of members of the mint family.</span><br />
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Henbit - Photo by Dr. John Meade, weed scientist emeritus</div>
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<span face=""robotoregular" , "arial" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #0a0a0a; font-size: 12px;">Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Lamium amplexicaule</i> L. - henbit deadnettle - Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. <cite style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica; font-size: 9px; text-align: start;">An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols.</cite><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica"; font-size: 9px;"> Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 3: 121. Provided by Kentucky Native Plant Society. Scanned By Omnitek Inc.- USDA Image Library</span></td></tr>
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<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Henbit has petioles on the lower leaves but not the upper leaves. The upper leaves are clasping, hence </span></div><div>the species name <i>amplexicaule </i>which means clasping.</div><div><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deadnettle - Photo by Dr. John Meade, weed scientist emeritus<br />
<span face=""robotoregular" , "arial" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #0a0a0a; font-size: 12px;">Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3rxvluvXpoGtzyMbQmY5JtWTmZ6ZmCqyf2MW2yPDQeJQJAVvUJv5loZGhShkejb8TQJHI_UtxV0dRv4Wjebcsn8iIFWfKykK3RVhyphenhyphenvzqCI9NuZZawGHKA6cZ7r4FckpArWdQD9hrjKSOZ/s1600/IMG_2141.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3rxvluvXpoGtzyMbQmY5JtWTmZ6ZmCqyf2MW2yPDQeJQJAVvUJv5loZGhShkejb8TQJHI_UtxV0dRv4Wjebcsn8iIFWfKykK3RVhyphenhyphenvzqCI9NuZZawGHKA6cZ7r4FckpArWdQD9hrjKSOZ/s320/IMG_2141.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deadnettle (<i>Lamium purpureum</i>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSfUBd7dHMRqDXtySg9AwoaCV43GmoNpt-imoIZ1OdaxvIc9fnl6Gh4nolfAbswGrufnfO0zJD-uW2wUsOAWJ7B9qHheDRMIYpCqIVRomGiTIaciKxUa9vcrpQgzpHKEn1xskPqBpxjJ0/s1600/lapu2_001_lvd.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSfUBd7dHMRqDXtySg9AwoaCV43GmoNpt-imoIZ1OdaxvIc9fnl6Gh4nolfAbswGrufnfO0zJD-uW2wUsOAWJ7B9qHheDRMIYpCqIVRomGiTIaciKxUa9vcrpQgzpHKEn1xskPqBpxjJ0/s320/lapu2_001_lvd.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Lamium purpurem </i>L. - purple deadnettle - Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. <cite style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica; font-size: 9px; text-align: start;">An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols.</cite><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica"; font-size: 9px;"> Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 3: 121. Provided by Kentucky Native Plant Society. Scanned By Omnitek Inc. - USDA Imahe Library</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">The leaves on deadnettle all have petioles. The length of the petioles tend to get smaller as you move upward on the plant. The upper leaves on henbit do have petioles and leaves on the lower portion of the plant have long petioles.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjp5qU9mgsi8LYdRnQ_7jfraGSV915WyP0lzoRHEAvK4BTylyqSDSI3EZGZb0y0fvZ4Iltv4yh_puycx-pAA1_YEnAou0RrDJ-3OUq-sBgFO-_dO792l2mcjIc9ioKcd3_ujrTGz3m5BW/s1600/IMG_2142.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjp5qU9mgsi8LYdRnQ_7jfraGSV915WyP0lzoRHEAvK4BTylyqSDSI3EZGZb0y0fvZ4Iltv4yh_puycx-pAA1_YEnAou0RrDJ-3OUq-sBgFO-_dO792l2mcjIc9ioKcd3_ujrTGz3m5BW/s320/IMG_2142.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />Deadnettle (on the right) and Henbit (on the left) Leaves<br /><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Notice that the leaves on the deadnettle are more triangular in shape and not as deeply lobed as the leaves on the henbit. The leaves of henbit have a more rounded shape, are deeply veined and have hairs on the upper and lower surfaces.</span><br />
<br />
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">Visit the weed control links listed below for information on controlling these weeds around the home or in the lawn.</span><br />
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br /></span>
<span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><b>NOTE</b>: Always read and follow herbicide directions carefully. Do not use herbicides for controlling broadleaf weeds in turf such as dandelion in or near ornamental planting beds. If weeds are a persistent problem in landscape planting beds homeowners may wish to consult with a professional landscape contractor. </span><br />
<br />
<b><u>Additional Information</u></b><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/weeds/" target="_blank">New Jersey Weed Gallery - Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/FS119/" target="_blank">Weed Control in Home Lawns - Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/FS020/" target="_blank">Weed Control around the Home Grounds - Rutgers Cooperative Extension</a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://mints.uga.edu/Meet_the_Mints.pdf" target="_blank">Meet the Mints - University of Georgia</a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://conservationresearchinstitute.org/forms/CRI-FLORA-Glossary.pdf" target="_blank">Illustrated Glossary - Flora of the Chicago Region -Conservation Research Institute </a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://turf.purdue.edu/henbit/" target="_blank">Henbit - Purdue University</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div></div></div></div>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-67692655417050952592024-03-11T06:45:00.000-07:002024-03-11T06:45:54.881-07:00What’s Not to Like About Lichens?<p>Often overlooked, Lichens serve many functions in the
natural environment. Not only are they good indicators of environmental health,
but they also support wildlife. Known as a “keystone” species, lichens are
vital to the well-being of the entire ecosystem. Late winter/early spring is a
great time to take a walk and keep an eye out for the many different types
growing in New Jersey.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjR_09gVr2bbLPX0AkRre_vYLzuDU9aipmW0St1XD-UAuWbczjUzzDPkNwY5rsGwduGgzhNaBFE-rvLHR_r-vDVcJuuhgkspNxTnlDwZVyhnm12PebnIU0JeUbtd44wkqmNTa__PHbp3vN4Rmhx53uV4H1OTOzlul0CTqTJCpjX311VFGLHSYF-zRe0rmE" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="433" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjR_09gVr2bbLPX0AkRre_vYLzuDU9aipmW0St1XD-UAuWbczjUzzDPkNwY5rsGwduGgzhNaBFE-rvLHR_r-vDVcJuuhgkspNxTnlDwZVyhnm12PebnIU0JeUbtd44wkqmNTa__PHbp3vN4Rmhx53uV4H1OTOzlul0CTqTJCpjX311VFGLHSYF-zRe0rmE=w229-h305" width="229" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;">Lichens come in different shapes, sizes, and
colors.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Rutgers Master Gardener of Burlington County</span></i></div>
<p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Lichens can be found growing on trees, rocks, soil, metal,
plastic, cloth, etc. They are living organisms that function as a symbiotic
combination of fungus, algae, and yeast. The algae provides nutrients through
photosynthesis, the fungi protects the algae from drying out, and the yeast
allows the lichen to produce an acid that protects it from microbes. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Lichens can be beautiful and take on many shapes depending
on the type. The three main groups of lichens include: crustose (crusty),
foliose (leafy), and fruticose (bearded or tubular).<o:p></o:p></p><p>
</p><p class="MsoNormal">Perhaps the biggest reason for lichens’ likability is that
lichens are indicators of good air quality. They are used as bio-monitors and
give scientists clues about environmental pollution levels. Most lichens will
not tolerate air pollution, they require clean air. They may die if exposed to
elevated levels of sulfur or heavy metals. According to the National Park
Service, <span style="font-family: inherit;">“<span style="background: white; color: #212529;">Lichen trap particulate
matter in the air like dust, while also absorbing smaller pollutants like
sulfur, mercury, and nitrogen. This means cleaner, healthier air for us to
breathe.” </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">In 2015, two species of lichens were removed from the Rutgers
Pinelands Field Station and moved to the New York Botanical Garden in New York
City. But, more than two years after the move, the lichens met their demise.
Researchers attributed their non-survival to both disturbance and exposure to higher levels of air pollution than was present in their previous habitat in southern New Jersey.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg-C6AETqAFGPlSD0gBhsE1hAfCVm9Mg0Fp9pFR9Pfk66eOQOFM3Hutr54ut4E6TrnqgleaphdhwBnCAbE8jye9Q2nvsmI2mrW-I5InV5et5ACj4UcqvrkOXEsI3IMa0KRvRG6Bebyav63iRjnl4jFPlaxYlORWwW0UzPSAEN-zMwKDmQlxUaGB56L-q6Y" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="319" data-original-width="425" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg-C6AETqAFGPlSD0gBhsE1hAfCVm9Mg0Fp9pFR9Pfk66eOQOFM3Hutr54ut4E6TrnqgleaphdhwBnCAbE8jye9Q2nvsmI2mrW-I5InV5et5ACj4UcqvrkOXEsI3IMa0KRvRG6Bebyav63iRjnl4jFPlaxYlORWwW0UzPSAEN-zMwKDmQlxUaGB56L-q6Y" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Group of boulders with crustose lichens.</span></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="background: white; color: #333333; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Karen Dillman, U.S. Forest Service.</span></span></i></div></i><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Contrary to a popular misconception, lichens do not harm
trees. They do not feed on tree bark. Lichens are not a sign that a tree is
damaged, dying, or diseased. They are found, however, on slow-growing, often
mature trees. In this way, they can be an indicator of declining health of the
tree because the bark has become brittle and cracked or the tree has defoliated.
The lichens are not damaging the tree, simply using the bark as a place to
exist and collect sunlight.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPD-hQzd5rEMXRLELINQF98okCj5jAHoV5vMg_rTChwHCbMC7SNZ4JAu5SIj4QfZlcWCQiL4-YI6EUZzNFBo1VCoDSIPXWHBV0Cn5aGoAiQ_LvcPrBMtNVTn-tYhSiVxnduXZ4482IHx1Ph6xjsBY342X--_762H7UWN6lwRYvBRV7XmqlkOAmnbsxKXM" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="385" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPD-hQzd5rEMXRLELINQF98okCj5jAHoV5vMg_rTChwHCbMC7SNZ4JAu5SIj4QfZlcWCQiL4-YI6EUZzNFBo1VCoDSIPXWHBV0Cn5aGoAiQ_LvcPrBMtNVTn-tYhSiVxnduXZ4482IHx1Ph6xjsBY342X--_762H7UWN6lwRYvBRV7XmqlkOAmnbsxKXM=w215-h286" width="215" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;">Foliose type lichen growing on a pine tree.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts Rutgers Master Gardener of Burlington County</span></i></div>
<p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Fun Facts about Lichen:<br /></p><div style="text-indent: 0px;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Lichens occur in all habitats,
including arctic, rainforests and desert.</li><li>Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds use
lichen to line their nests.</li><li>Lacewing insects carry lichen on
their backs as camouflage.</li><li>Lichens are a food source for
deer, birds, and rodents.</li><li>Scientists can use certain
slow-growing lichens to estimate the age of rocks, glacial retreats, and
landslides.</li><li>Humans throughout history have
used lichens in food, to dye clothing, and as medicine.</li><li>Some lichens can live for
centuries.</li><li>There are approximately 3,600
species of known lichen in North America.</li></ul><o:p></o:p><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><!--[if !supportLists]--><o:p></o:p><p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">The next time you are out for a walk, take a moment to
notice the abundant and different types of lichens. Now you know more about them, you may find
yourself breathing a bit easier and liking lichens a bit more.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br /></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p><u>References and Additional Resources</u>:</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Rutgers Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet: “Tree-Dwelling
Lichen”<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1205/">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1205/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">University of Maryland Extension: “Lichen, Algae, and Moss
on Trees”<br />
<a href="https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lichen-algae-and-moss-trees/">https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lichen-algae-and-moss-trees/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">US Forest Service: “Lichen Biology”<br />
<a href="https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/lichens/biology.shtml">https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/lichens/biology.shtml</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Us National Park Service: “Lichen-The Little Things that
Matter”<br />
<a href="https://www.nps.gov/articles/lichen-and-our-air.htm">https://www.nps.gov/articles/lichen-and-our-air.htm</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">New York State Parks Blog: “Likin’ the Lichens in New York
State”<br />
<a href="https://nystateparks.blog/2017/05/09/likin-the-lichens-in-new-york-state/">https://nystateparks.blog/2017/05/09/likin-the-lichens-in-new-york-state/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">New York Botanical Garden Blog: “New Jersey Lichens Give Up
the Ghost”<br />
<a href="https://www.nybg.org/blogs/science-talk/2018/01/new-jersey-lichens-give-ghost/">https://www.nybg.org/blogs/science-talk/2018/01/new-jersey-lichens-give-ghost/<br /></a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p></div>Alysonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09066943307765942202noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-70811551924730662382024-02-23T04:51:00.000-08:002024-02-23T04:51:07.476-08:00Soil: The Incredible Resource Below Our Feet<p>No garden can be successful without healthy soil. Often
mistakenly undervalued, soil is the fundamental resource sustaining everything
on earth. Plant life and the organisms that depend on plants could not survive
without it. It is a living thing with many parts systematically working
together. Soil provides the minerals, nutrients, biological elements, and the structure
plants need to grow and thrive. But, don’t confuse soil with dirt. Dirt refers
to bits of debris that are unclean or dusty. Dirt cannot support plants,
whereas soil is teaming with beneficial life.</p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Soils start as stones that have been broken down again and
again over millennia by wind and water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those
become particles of varying size (sand, silt, and clay). Among these particles
is organic matter, decaying plants, animals, and microorganisms like bacteria
and fungi. Soil has pore spaces that fill with air and water. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;">“In <span style="background: white; color: #1f212e;">just one
teaspoon of agricultural soil there can be</span></div><span style="background: white; color: #1f212e;"><div style="text-align: justify;">one hundred million to one billion
bacteria,</div></span></div><span style="background: white; color: #1f212e;"><div style="text-align: justify;">six to nine feet of fungal strands put end to end,</div><div style="text-align: justify;">several thousand
flagellates and amoeba,</div><div style="text-align: justify;">one to several hundred ciliates,</div><div style="text-align: justify;">hundreds of nematodes,<br /> up to one hundred tiny soil insects,</div><div style="text-align: justify;">and five or more earthworms.”</div><i><div style="text-align: justify;"><i>(Penn
State Extension, “Soil Quality Information”, 2012.)</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div></i></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>What are the characteristics of quality soil?<o:p></o:p></b></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #1f212e;">
</span></p><p class="MsoNormal">As gardeners, managing soil can be just as important as
managing the plants that grow in it. Soil should do what we want it to do.
Whether you are growing a vegetable crop, ornamental shrubs, or a lush lawn,
paying attention to your soil’s composition and fertility is vital.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">The characteristics of soil are unique. Ideally, soil should have lots of organic
matter, the capacity to hold water and air, and the ability to release
nutrients to plants. It also functions to anchor plants, insulate their roots,
and resist erosion.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjF6Q0YYBKm_liHE0OICrUZBxl7Zxv4-VKDRtZcF3zmjBMUp5uuJ_sAv0ykOdEnRZjUM2ImJNvYi0a-tGiz9hksP0zEIV9u4XfzfnmRHXh_quim8QmQ8NfnyrAecqdPG7fgjVYh9LKmN-epUIA6QIeL07_I3wqmpBa3k6xF_CyRVzVe7oxcTYZX7CNAwjc" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="469" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjF6Q0YYBKm_liHE0OICrUZBxl7Zxv4-VKDRtZcF3zmjBMUp5uuJ_sAv0ykOdEnRZjUM2ImJNvYi0a-tGiz9hksP0zEIV9u4XfzfnmRHXh_quim8QmQ8NfnyrAecqdPG7fgjVYh9LKmN-epUIA6QIeL07_I3wqmpBa3k6xF_CyRVzVe7oxcTYZX7CNAwjc=w260-h272" width="260" /></a></div><p></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Soil in the home garden.
<br />
</span><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Burlington County Master Gardener</span><o:p></o:p></i></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal">Soil can be categorized by its texture; sand, silt, clay, or
loam. Sandy soil provides good drainage to plants as it lets water freely pass
through, although it does not hold many nutrients. Silt particles are smoother
and silkier than sand. Clay is smaller particles and holds on to water and
nutrients, but can be difficult for plants roots to move through. Loam soil
contains lots of organic matter and is a combination of sand, silt, and clay. <o:p></o:p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal">The composition of your soil depends on your location.
Although soils vary widely across the state, New Jersey has a designated state
soil found mostly in southern locations.
Called “Downer” soils, they are loamy, acidic, and made of coastal plain
sediments. These soils are good for growing agricultural crops and sustaining
many species of woodland trees. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal"><b>How do you know what is in your soil? <o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thinking about soil first is an important step. Knowing the
characteristics of your soil will determine your approach to planting and can
help you decide what to plant and where. Some soils are ideal for specific
plants and not for others. Getting your soil tested is the only way to know
what’s in there. You want to know if your soil has issues that need to be
corrected or if any amendments are needed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Getting a soil test is environmentally friendly because you won’t be
adding any unnecessary fertilizers that have the potential to run off and
contaminate waterways. Soil tests can save money because you won’t be buying amendments
you don’t need.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhLDtDxCuJvoEOjf0-jR2BIZOcPzuX7oURHw36c2RXQRXWZWFRvor7I1lHyhkeuj0TYjz8OG_f-FDgqQobAbg7iZNNB--zuQWCm3f4elYWn9u1oiK5jB3l4kenzJA2PGBPNzkNsCMfaNQY_KOhVzrvOkE5AXyGBd1Uly7Fgn0Ne39Z8ZeQwW04JwWX_kMs" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="585" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhLDtDxCuJvoEOjf0-jR2BIZOcPzuX7oURHw36c2RXQRXWZWFRvor7I1lHyhkeuj0TYjz8OG_f-FDgqQobAbg7iZNNB--zuQWCm3f4elYWn9u1oiK5jB3l4kenzJA2PGBPNzkNsCMfaNQY_KOhVzrvOkE5AXyGBd1Uly7Fgn0Ne39Z8ZeQwW04JwWX_kMs" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory</span></div>
<i><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo Credit: Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station</span></i></div><o:p></o:p></i><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shapetype id="_x0000_t202"
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<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><b>Rutgers Soil
Testing Laboratory<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><a
href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'>The soil testing
lab provides testing and reports to help New Jersey residents achieve their
agricultural and environmental goals.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]-->Fall is a great time to have your soil tested
so you can prepare before the growing season. The first step in getting your
soil tested is to purchase a test kit from the Rutgers Cooperative Extension
county office or follow the sampling instructions on the website. Make sure to
follow the sampling instructions carefully.
About two cups of sample soil is required from several holes, dug about
6 to 8 inches deep. Also, you will need to submit a soil questionnaire. Areas
used for different types of plants should be tested separately. For example, perennial
beds should be tested separately from the lawn and separately from the
vegetable garden. The report will arrive in a few weeks from the time of
submission by email or mail. For questions about your soil report contact the
extension office.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rutgers Soil
Testing Laboratory<br /></b><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/</a></p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">The soil testing lab
provides testing and reports to help <br />New Jersey residents achieve their
agricultural and environmental goals.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Soil pH</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Knowing your soil pH (how acidic or alkaline) is important
because plants can’t take up the nutrients they require if the pH is not within
the optimal range. If the soil pH is not correct for the plant, soil amendments
can be used to adjust the pH. The soil test report will indicate if limestone should
be used to raise the pH or a sulfur application is needed to lower pH. A pH of about 6.5 is optimum for most plants.
Some plants have special needs, however. Blueberries, for example, prefer to
grow in very acidic soil with a pH between 4.0 and 4.8. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Macronutrients and Micronutrients<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Soil already has nutrients in it. A soil test will tell you
what nutrients and how much it contains. Macronutrients are required by plants
in larger amounts than micronutrients. Macronutrients are nitrogen (N),
phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Micronutrients are calcium, manganese,
boron, zinc, and copper. Depending on the levels, composted organic matter or
specific fertilizers may be needed. If applying fertilizer, use the correct
type and amount. Always read the label and instructions. <o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>How to Care for and Maintain Soil<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Keeping your soil covered with mulch, compost or a cover
crop is an important step. This will help with erosion control and also add
nutrients as the cover decomposes. Covering soil will help minimize weeds, retain
moisture, and moderate the temperature. Try to avoid walking on soil and
instead stick to walkways. Compacted soil becomes a problem because roots,
water, and air cannot move through it. This is why tilling, which can compact
soil, should be done in moderation. Try to avoid disturbing soil as this can
bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. Finally, use an Integrated Pest
Management strategy to avoid overuse of pesticides which can kill some of the
living organisms in the soil.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u>Additional Resources:<o:p></o:p></u></p><p class="MsoNormal">Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 719: “Soil Fertility Test
Interpretation”<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS719">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS719</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 797: “Soil Testing for Home
Lawns and Gardens”<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs797/">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs797/</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Penn State Extension: “Soil Quality Information”<br />
<a href="https://extension.psu.edu/soil-quality-information">https://extension.psu.edu/soil-quality-information</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 1135: Soil Organic Matter<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS1135">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS1135</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station: “How to Have
Your Soil Tested”<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/how-to.php">https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/how-to.php</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"><br />
</span><br />
Jersey Friendly Yards: “Step 2, Start With Healthy Soil”<br />
<a href="https://www.jerseyyards.org/create-a-jersey-friendly-yard/8-steps/step-2-start-with-healthy-soil/">https://www.jerseyyards.org/create-a-jersey-friendly-yard/8-steps/step-2-start-with-healthy-soil/</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Soil Science Society of America: “Soils are Living”<br />
<a href="https://www.soils.org/files/sssa/iys/july-soils-overview.pdf">https://www.soils.org/files/sssa/iys/july-soils-overview.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service: “New Jersey
Soil”<br />
<a href="https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/conservation-by-state/new-jersey/new-jersey-soils">https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/conservation-by-state/new-jersey/new-jersey-soils</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Soil Science Society of America: “Downer, New Jersey State
Soil”<br />
<a href="https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/nj-state-soil-booklet.pdf">https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/nj-state-soil-booklet.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Michigan State University Extension: “Soil…it’s more than
dirt”<br />
<a href="https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soilits_more_than_dirt">https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soilits_more_than_dirt</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Rutgers University Extension: “Digging Deeper: What’s Your
Soil Telling You?”<br />
Video: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0rNVblU_08">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0rNVblU_08</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"> Brooklyn Botanic
Garden: “How Compost Builds the Soil”<br />
<a href="https://www.bbg.org/article/how_compost_builds_the_soil#:~:text=Feed%20the%20soil%2C%20not%20the,Bin%20A%20homemade%20compost%20bin">https://www.bbg.org/article/how_compost_builds_the_soil#:~:text=Feed%20the%20soil%2C%20not%20the,Bin%20A%20homemade%20compost%20bin</a>.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p></p><div><br /></div>Alysonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09066943307765942202noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-91344874166972593772024-02-08T07:42:00.000-08:002024-02-08T07:42:45.998-08:00Some Tips on Planning a Vegetable Garden<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fdW9R35FlRMMK2nRWSxg-l8qDG0H93mGT1Jo4mbteAg_FUJaQqJDtCkQbRfoRgwnri1qXzgfPVRMRy7ATSh_aseNHoGSxvUhD4fGVGfLtQSN4oSTCJ67lInI78NjsS63spvUH4rBUmGkCa7HNKNte9nJGuDiQaSBpHU55YVrIWiFCsJ1FTS7VANvipw/s404/harvest.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="269" data-original-width="404" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fdW9R35FlRMMK2nRWSxg-l8qDG0H93mGT1Jo4mbteAg_FUJaQqJDtCkQbRfoRgwnri1qXzgfPVRMRy7ATSh_aseNHoGSxvUhD4fGVGfLtQSN4oSTCJ67lInI78NjsS63spvUH4rBUmGkCa7HNKNte9nJGuDiQaSBpHU55YVrIWiFCsJ1FTS7VANvipw/s320/harvest.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p>We are in the middle of winter and winter is the best time to plan for your summer garden. New and experienced gardeners can achieve great results by following some basic recommendations. Here are some suggestions and resources that will guide you as you begin this year's gardening adventure.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Planning</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLL77bA3APW9QHLOjnoOYU4aSt0IhTZeHJejI5pGu2x2L-JyHU-uVStLn2yj9Sw2vbKCra-QBl5JOwhXuurefrrgagcK87qYPBOZPElaVPty291l9kUzz4uJzoPFtSQ2Q5G6Vu9opgq72Aek1JxjLAJxdMQqQaZuk-eqcWZh0NxkMLxas5Kd47FuUIhA/s533/make%20-a-garden-plan.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLL77bA3APW9QHLOjnoOYU4aSt0IhTZeHJejI5pGu2x2L-JyHU-uVStLn2yj9Sw2vbKCra-QBl5JOwhXuurefrrgagcK87qYPBOZPElaVPty291l9kUzz4uJzoPFtSQ2Q5G6Vu9opgq72Aek1JxjLAJxdMQqQaZuk-eqcWZh0NxkMLxas5Kd47FuUIhA/s320/make%20-a-garden-plan.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><p>Plan the garden on paper. </p><p>Draw a map of the garden layout showing the location and spacing of the crops. <span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">When planting, group tall crops (okraand sunflowers) and trellised vines (peas and beans) together on the north side of the garden so they won’t shade shorter plants.</span></span></p><p>One of the most important reasons to draw out a plan is so that you can use it in subsequent years to make sure you are rotating your crops as you should. <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vegetable crops in the same plant family should not be planted in the same area of a garden year after year. See the table below for a list of common plant families.</span></span></p><p>Make a list of the plants that you enjoy eating and rank them in order of preference.</p><p>Keep a journal and record your thoughts and observations throughout the growing seasons. The journal can be your reference point for what worked and what didn't work. </p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Site Selection</b></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDwuUSj-C2Pk7OeS03LnkAIuggcWTBzukD3yK16J5KxjkBSpXXNevhBa653ytQoYa_-rFuja6oB157SQ5jMFOUkQJxnAjzi4CK2SLBflQ_CWaGVmz7e6htQVVKrjsi-tTGtsOk3qBstkTjH_HKVW6bHEStiXayD1LEhL1Pf_nug6TTXlStEEsMTJpFDuI/s983/samplesite.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="983" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDwuUSj-C2Pk7OeS03LnkAIuggcWTBzukD3yK16J5KxjkBSpXXNevhBa653ytQoYa_-rFuja6oB157SQ5jMFOUkQJxnAjzi4CK2SLBflQ_CWaGVmz7e6htQVVKrjsi-tTGtsOk3qBstkTjH_HKVW6bHEStiXayD1LEhL1Pf_nug6TTXlStEEsMTJpFDuI/s320/samplesite.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Selecting a site for your garden:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The site should have good drainage. Avoid putting the garden in an area where rain water accumulates. </li><li>Easy access to water is essential.</li><li>Proximity to your house. Choose a location that is easy to get to and convenient. </li><li>Choose a location with a southern exposure where the plants will get plenty of sun. Most vegetables need eight hours of direct sunlight</li><li>The garden should be as small as possible to reduce the amount of unnecessary work.</li></ul><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Garden Format</b></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">If you don’t have space for a vegetable garden or if your present site is too small, consider raising fresh, homegrown vegetables in containers. A window sill, patio, balcony, or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a productive container garden. </span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpegNRqmST9T7EVhBFsGoufKjO_PiCl_UMsK28kQz8Kpw87kg-iDKiO-enPyxuGKWGYYSREnIGIDdoGdhLVGMy3hyKXf4PnaNUnZ7t_QDNGr4GUKh2Mw8xcYYh2xhuDEf6AX2V35GSP49P4psEY_6sQgC9oScn5YF7OYPLSiTxoaVRXF4dOqgEPsVtmw/s1589/container_garden.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="1589" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpegNRqmST9T7EVhBFsGoufKjO_PiCl_UMsK28kQz8Kpw87kg-iDKiO-enPyxuGKWGYYSREnIGIDdoGdhLVGMy3hyKXf4PnaNUnZ7t_QDNGr4GUKh2Mw8xcYYh2xhuDEf6AX2V35GSP49P4psEY_6sQgC9oScn5YF7OYPLSiTxoaVRXF4dOqgEPsVtmw/s320/container_garden.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Container Garden - University of Maryland Extension</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Some suggestions for choosing containers:</span></span></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938; font-family: inherit;">Everyday objects can be recycled and used as containers.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938; font-family: inherit;">Avoid dark colored containers, since they create more heat that may damage a young plant's roots.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938; font-family: inherit;">Containers made of materials like clay dry out more quickly than containers made of plastic or metal.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938; font-family: inherit;">Containers should have holes for draining water, unless they are self-watering.</span></li><li><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938; font-family: inherit;">Plastics not made for outdoor can become brittle.</span></li></ul><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56);"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Listed below are some recommendations for growing vegetables in containers.</span></span></p><p></p><p></p><table class="table"><caption><h3>Information for Growing Vegetables in Containers</h3></caption><thead><tr><th scope="col"><span style="background-color: white;">Vegetable* Light Requirement**</span></th><th scope="col"><span style="background-color: white;">Minimum Container Size</span></th><th scope="col"><span style="background-color: white;">Distance (inches) Between Plants in Containers</span></th><th scope="col"><span style="background-color: white;">Days from Seed to Harvest</span></th><th scope="col"><span style="background-color: white;">Comments</span></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Beans, bush FS</td><td>2 gal.</td><td>2-3</td><td>45-60</td><td>Several plantings, two-week intervals</td></tr><tr><td>Beets FS/PS</td><td>1/2 gal.</td><td>2-3</td><td>50-60</td><td>Thin plants when 6 to 8 inches tall</td></tr><tr><td>Carrots FS/PS</td><td>1 qt.</td><td>2-3</td><td>65-80</td><td>Several plantings, two-week intervals</td></tr><tr><td>Cabbage FS/PS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>12-18</td><td>65-120</td><td>Requires fertile soil</td></tr><tr><td>Chard, Swiss FS/PS</td><td>1/2 gal.</td><td>4-6</td><td>30-40</td><td>Harvest leaves for long yield</td></tr><tr><td>Cucumbers FS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>14-18</td><td>70-80</td><td>Require hot weather, vining types need support</td></tr><tr><td>Eggplant FS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>1 plant per container</td><td>75-100</td><td>Requires fertile soil</td></tr><tr><td>Kale FS/PS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>10-15</td><td>55-65</td><td>Harvest leaves</td></tr><tr><td>Lettuce, leaf PS</td><td>1/2 gal.</td><td>4-6</td><td>30-35</td><td>Harvest leaves</td></tr><tr><td>Mustard greens PS</td><td>1/2 gal.</td><td>4-5</td><td>35-40</td><td>Several plantings, two-week intervals</td></tr><tr><td>Onions, green FS/PS</td><td>1/2 gal.</td><td>2-3</td><td>70-100</td><td>Require lots of moisture</td></tr><tr><td>Peppers, Bell FS</td><td>2 gal.</td><td>1 plant per container</td><td>110-120</td><td>Require hot weather</td></tr><tr><td>Radishes FS/PS</td><td>1 pint</td><td>1</td><td>25-35</td><td>Several plantings, weekly intervals</td></tr><tr><td>Squash, summer FS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>1 plant per container</td><td>50-60</td><td>Plant only bush type</td></tr><tr><td>Tomatoes FS</td><td>5 gal.</td><td>1 plant per container</td><td>55-100</td><td>Stake and prune or cage</td></tr><tr><td>Tomatoes, cherry FS</td><td>1 gal.</td><td>1 plant per container</td><td>55-100</td><td>Helps to stake and prune</td></tr><tr><td>Turnips FS/PS</td><td>3 gal.</td><td>2-3</td><td>30-60</td><td>Harvest leaves and roots</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(7, 41, 56); color: #072938;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></span></p><p> </p><div>If you are not growing plants in a container the table below provides useful information for growing vegetables in New Jersey.</div><div> </div><div><table id="table1"><caption><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>New Jersey Vegetable Planting Guide</b></span></caption><tbody><tr><th rowspan="2">Vegetable</th><th colspan="2">Spacing (in.)</th><th rowspan="2">Transplant or Seeds</th><th rowspan="2">Planting Dates*</th><th rowspan="2">Avg. Yield per 10 ft. of Row</th></tr><tr><th>In Row</th><th>Btwn. Rows</th></tr><tr><td>Asparagus</td><td>18</td><td>60</td><td>Crowns</td><td>Perennial</td><td>5 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Beans, Lima, bush</td><td>4</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>6 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Beans, Lima, pole</td><td>36</td><td>36</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>7 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Beans, Snap, bush</td><td>4</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>6 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Beans, snap., pole</td><td>36</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>7 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Beets</td><td>3</td><td>15</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>14 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Broccoli</td><td>15</td><td>30</td><td>transplant</td><td>Ap,Ma,Jl,Au</td><td>8 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Brussels Sprouts</td><td>18</td><td>30</td><td>transplant</td><td>Jl</td><td>5 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Cabbage</td><td>18</td><td>24</td><td>transplant</td><td>Ap,Jl</td><td>7 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Cabbage, Chinese</td><td>12</td><td>18</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ap,Jl</td><td>10 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Carrots</td><td>3</td><td>15</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>10 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Cauliflower</td><td>24</td><td>30</td><td>transplant</td><td>Jl</td><td>5 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Celery</td><td>6</td><td>18</td><td>transplant</td><td>Ma,Ju</td><td>20 stalks</td></tr><tr><td>Chard, Swiss</td><td>6</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au</td><td>20 plants</td></tr><tr><td>Collards</td><td>18</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl</td><td>10 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Corn, Sweet</td><td>12</td><td>24</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju</td><td>10 ears</td></tr><tr><td>Cucumbers</td><td>36</td><td>30</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ju,Jl</td><td>8 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Eggplant</td><td>30</td><td>30</td><td>transplant</td><td>Ma,Ju</td><td>20 fruit</td></tr><tr><td>Endive</td><td>12</td><td>18</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au</td><td>10 plants</td></tr><tr><td>Kale</td><td>15</td><td>18</td><td>seed</td><td>Jl,Au</td><td>24 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Kohlrabi</td><td>4</td><td>15</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ap,Ma,Jl,Au</td><td>20 bulb.</td></tr><tr><td>Leeks</td><td>3</td><td>15</td><td>transplants</td><td>Ap,Ma,Au</td><td>40 plants</td></tr><tr><td>Lettuce,Leaf,Romaine</td><td>8</td><td>15</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ap,Ma,Au,Se</td><td>15 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Lettuce, Bibb</td><td>6</td><td>15</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ap,Ma,Au,Se</td><td>20 heads</td></tr><tr><td>Muskmelons</td><td>36</td><td>72</td><td>seed or trp.</td><td>Ju</td><td>8 melons</td></tr><tr><td>Mustard Greens</td><td>12</td><td>15</td><td>seed</td><td>Au</td><td>10 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Okra</td><td>24</td><td>36</td><td>seed</td><td>Ma,Ju</td><td>100 pods</td></tr><tr><td>Onions, dry</td><td>4</td><td>15</td><td>seed,trp.sets</td><td>Ap</td><td>10 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Parsley</td><td>6</td><td>15</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju</td><td>20 bunches</td></tr><tr><td>Parsnips</td><td>3</td><td>18</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap</td><td>10 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Peas</td><td>2</td><td>18</td><td>seed</td><td>Mr,Ap</td><td>3 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Peppers</td><td>15</td><td>15</td><td>transplant</td><td>Ju</td><td>12 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Pumpkins</td><td>48</td><td>96</td><td>seed</td><td>Ju</td><td>4 fruit</td></tr><tr><td>Radishes</td><td>1</td><td>12</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au,Se</td><td>60 roots</td></tr><tr><td>Rhubarb</td><td>36</td><td>48</td><td>crowns</td><td>Perennial</td><td>20 stalks</td></tr><tr><td>Rutabagas</td><td>4</td><td>18</td><td>seeds</td><td>Ap,Jl</td><td>15 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Spinach</td><td>4</td><td>18</td><td>seeds</td><td>Ap,Se</td><td>7 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Squash, bush</td><td>24</td><td>48</td><td>seeds or trp.</td><td>Ju,Jl</td><td>25 fruit</td></tr><tr><td>Squash, vine</td><td>36</td><td>72</td><td>seeds or trp.</td><td>Ju</td><td>20 fruits</td></tr><tr><td>Sweet Potatoes</td><td>12</td><td>36</td><td>transplants</td><td>Ju</td><td>12 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Tomatoes</td><td>24</td><td>36</td><td>transplants</td><td>Ma,Ju</td><td>50 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Turnips</td><td>3</td><td>18</td><td>seed</td><td>Ap,Jl</td><td>7 lb.</td></tr><tr><td>Watermelons</td><td>36</td><td>96</td><td>seed</td><td>Ju</td><td>3 melons</td></tr><tr><td>White Potatoes</td><td>12</td><td>24</td><td>tubers</td><td>Ap</td><td>18 lb.</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p></div><p><span face="robotoregular, Arial, "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(10, 10, 10); color: #0a0a0a; font-size: 12px;">*Mr=March; Ap=April; Ma=May; Ju=June; Jl=July; Au=August; Se=September</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16px;">Many new vegetable varieties of vegetables are constantly being developed. Before purchasing vegetable plants read the label carefully, note the growing conditions, date to maturity, </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16px;">resistance to </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16px;">disease and pests.</span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><strong style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="box-sizing: inherit; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">Some common vegetables and their plant family classifications.</span></span></strong></div><p><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 16px;"></span></p><figure class="wp-block-table" style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 1em 0px; overflow-x: auto;"><table style="border-collapse: collapse; border-style: solid; border-width: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 0.8em; width: 1100px;"><thead style="border-bottom-color: currentcolor; border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 3px; box-sizing: inherit;"><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;">P<span style="font-family: inherit;">LANT FAMILY</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">VEGETABLE</span></td></tr></thead><tbody style="box-sizing: inherit;"><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Carrot Family (Apiaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">carrot, celery, parsley, parsnip</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Goosefoot Family (Chenopodiaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">beet, spinach, Swiss chard</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gourd Family (Cucurbitaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">cucumber, muskmelon, pumpkin, summer squash, watermelon, winter squash</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Grass Family (Poaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">ornamental carn, popcorn, sweet corn</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mallow Family (Malvaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">okra</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mustard Family (Brassicaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">broccoli, Burssels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collard, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, radish, rutabaga, turnip</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nightshade Family (Solanaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Onion Family (Alliaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">chives, garlic, leek, onion</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Pea Family (Fabaceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">bush bean, kidney bean, lima bean, pea, pole bean, soybean</span></td></tr><tr style="box-sizing: inherit;"><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sunflower Family (Asteraceae)</span></td><td style="border: 1px solid; box-sizing: inherit; padding: 0.5em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">endive, lettuce, sunflower</span></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Test and Prepare the Soil</b></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzwXyPbL1DeyP_OfFJ5ujGS857IJtTLls7jh3FpG4UT15m8E_xsoQx1HW4a5TLpFDMMumS0MwQOZnIgjF24gtuLsy3lqBLse4hKeN0Qi4Du7v5yD8xT7L5luaV4f1y-XqGckmN21P-Zds3DFZoYRtjN0rbIfbYFGpRqSBcU7woxy-4XYbuHEXSfYwHjI/s450/soiltesting.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="450" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCzwXyPbL1DeyP_OfFJ5ujGS857IJtTLls7jh3FpG4UT15m8E_xsoQx1HW4a5TLpFDMMumS0MwQOZnIgjF24gtuLsy3lqBLse4hKeN0Qi4Du7v5yD8xT7L5luaV4f1y-XqGckmN21P-Zds3DFZoYRtjN0rbIfbYFGpRqSBcU7woxy-4XYbuHEXSfYwHjI/s320/soiltesting.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example of a soil test kit</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Soil testing is an easy, quick and accurate method to determine the relative acidity of the soil. The test </span></span><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">will</span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51);"> also measure the level of some essential nutrients (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper, and zinc) needed for healthy plant growth. S</span></span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: #333333;">amples for planting and gardening projects should be submitted several weeks before you plan to plant. This will allow plenty of time for you to get the results back and if necessary, amend the soil before planting. </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: inherit;">The results from the test will aid you in plant selection, soil preparation, and fertilization. The test results will help you avoid overfertilization, which can stimulate excessive plant growth and increase the likelihood of some diseases. Applying the correct grade and amount of fertilizer </span></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(51, 51, 51); color: #333333;">can also help reduce pollution of our water supplies</span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"> and allow you to have healthier, more productive plants.</span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Irrigation</b></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);">Generally speaking, most vegetable crops grow best if they receive about an inch of rainfall per week through the growing season. In a season with regular rainfall, supplemental irrigation may not be necessary except when first transplanting young plants into the garden. However, in a dry year, access to irrigation may be needed. </span></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);">Many </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);">gardeners irrigate overhead (with a hose and nozzle attachment or with a sprinkler system) or using drip irrigation (using soaker hoses). Drip </span></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);">irrigation</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"> is the most efficient method for irrigation. In drip </span></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);">irrigation systems the water is slowly released at the garden's surface through plastic tubing with tiny holes.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"> Reliable and convenient access to a source of water is critical to the success of your garden.</span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"><br /></span></span></span></span></p><div style="box-sizing: border-box;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Integrated Pest Management (IPM)</b></span></div><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span><span style="caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"></span></span></span></p><div style="box-sizing: border-box;">IPM is method that can be used to manage weeds and other pest in a garden. What is IPM? IPM <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 17px;">is a "science-based decision-making process that combines tools and strategies to identify and manage pests". In a garden, a pest is any </span></span><span style="font-size: 17px;">organism</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 17px;"> (plant or animal) that interferes with the growth of the vegetables in your garden. </span></span></span> </div><div><br /></div><p><span style="background-color: white;"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0UoagKvUk8EaevcwC3O-MFRU7O0i9LeUlvzkjfTfIlhSFpK7w4En7zMojabOfoeVIKQfrf-A37_OgqHsRhVNVXC18LpzEKkntqPzfdT375uBQ2s_DxL92JnKuRWPGIaaQg6rdfHrnGwguMD8TLqg6qf9omekDbAq8nc6cGOMW-OPtGT69RMm8qIllBQ/s1553/ESA-Factsheet-IPM-weblarge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1553" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0UoagKvUk8EaevcwC3O-MFRU7O0i9LeUlvzkjfTfIlhSFpK7w4En7zMojabOfoeVIKQfrf-A37_OgqHsRhVNVXC18LpzEKkntqPzfdT375uBQ2s_DxL92JnKuRWPGIaaQg6rdfHrnGwguMD8TLqg6qf9omekDbAq8nc6cGOMW-OPtGT69RMm8qIllBQ/w541-h418/ESA-Factsheet-IPM-weblarge.jpg" width="541" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Factsheet from the Entomological Society of America </td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;"><b>Weed Control</b></span></p><p>Weeds are a constant problem for all gardeners. Weeds compete with the plants in your garden for nutrients and resources. Weeds can also introduce insect pests and diseases into the garden. Effective weed control is essential for ensuring that your garden will have healthy and productive plants. Weeds can be managed with mechanical, chemical, mulch and weed fabric.</p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Mechanical</b></span> </p><p>You can control weeds by cultivation and periodically hand pulling the weeds throughout the growing season. Begin your control efforts early in the growing season when the weeds are small and easier to eradicate. If cultivating avoid deep tillage since it brings more weeds to the surface and can cause the soil to dry out more rapidly.</p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><b>Chemical</b></span></p><p>Organic herbicides (pesticides used to control weeds) and non-organic herbicides can also be used to control the weeds in your garden.</p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">There are basically two types of herbicides: pre-emergent and post-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides control the germinating seeds before plants emerge from the soil. They won’t control weeds that have already emerged and are growing in the garden. Post-emergent </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">herbicides are used to control weeds that have already emerged. The younger the weed, the better chance that a post-emergence herbicide will work. In addition to herbicides being pre or post-emergent, herbicides can </span>also<span style="font-family: inherit;"> be </span>non-selective<span style="font-family: inherit;"> and selective. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Herbicides that kill most plants they contact are called non-selective. While herbicides<b> </b>that control some kinds of plants but not others are called selective herbicides.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">A few things to remember</span></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Always identify the weed you are trying to control. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Check that the herbicide label lists the weed you are trying to control. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Verify that the weed is in a stage that can be controlled by the herbicide. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Make sure that the herbicide is safe to use around the </span>other<span style="font-family: inherit;"> plants in your garden. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: inherit;">Remember, a non-selective herbicide will kill all plants </span>susceptible<span style="font-family: inherit;"> to the herbicide and not just weeds.</span></li></ul><p></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b><i><span style="font-size: medium;">Always</span></i></b>, try to minimize the use of pesticides that pollute our waterways. W</span><span style="background-color: white;">henever possible</span><span style="background-color: white;"> use non-chemical alternatives or less toxic pesticide products . </span><span style="color: #c72e27;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Read product labels carefully</span></b></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span>and follow instructions on the proper use, storage and </span>disposal.</span></p><p><b><span style="font-family: arial;">Mulch</span></b></p><p><span style="background-color: #fefefe; caret-color: rgb(89, 89, 89); font-family: inherit;">Mulch is an effective way to help prevent weeds in gardens. Mulch can be defined as an applied barrier of some form of organic matter. </span></p>Benefits of Mulching <div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Reduces soil evaporative water losses. </li><li>Increases soil temperature </li><li>Controls or suppresses weeds </li><li>Reduces nutrient leaching during heavy rainfall. </li><li>May add nutrients to soil (organic mulches)</li></ul></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"><span style="font-family: inherit;">New plantings should be mulched immediately after planting. Early spring is ideal, as this conserves existing soil moisture during the period when plants are coming out of winter dormancy. Early season application also prevents many weed seeds from germinating or emerging through the mulch if mulch is applied at recommended depths for the particular material selected. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Weed the area well before applying mulch. Then spread mulch over the entire planting area. Keep mulch 2-3 inches away from the base of plants to prevent conditions that encourage diseases or attract rodents. Do not form a "mulch volcano" at the bottom of the plant. This practice provides shelter for voles in particular, which eat bark and can girdle plants entirely, resulting in plant damage or death. </span></span><span face="Source Sans Pro, Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #555555;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85);"><br /></span></span><p><b><span style="font-family: arial;">Weed Fabric </span></b></p><div style="box-sizing: border-box;"><p style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Weed fabrics are materials woven of fabric, plastic, or paper, The fabrics are available in various lengths and widths. The materials are usually treated to resist decomposition. The fabric's materials are </span>constructed<span style="font-family: inherit;"> to allow water and air to move through the fabric. Weed </span>barriers<span style="font-family: inherit;"> work well on most weeds, although some grasses may grow up through the holes in the fabric. Weed fabric and landscape cloth work best when they are pinned down so that weeds cannot lift up fabric. Moisture, temperature, and weed control can be improved by adding several inches of another organic mulching material on top of the weed fabric/landscape cloth.</span></p><p style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><p style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 1rem; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p></div><div style="box-sizing: border-box;"><u><b><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Additional Information</span></b></u></div><p><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/" target="_blank">Soil Testing Lab - Rutgers University - NJAES</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.uaex.uada.edu/publications/PDF/FSA-6117.pdf" target="_blank">Lamb Brothers System of Container Gardening - University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/raised-bed-gardens" target="_blank">Raised Bed Gardens - University of Minnesota Extension</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1328/" target="_blank">Soil for Raised Bed Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs129/" target="_blank">Planning a Vegetable Garden - Rutgers University - NJAES</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/drip-irrigation-home-gardens-4-702/" target="_blank">Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens - Colorado State Extension</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/weeds/">New Jersey Weed Gallery - Rutgers University - NJAES</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-04-02-starting-garden-weed-management" target="_blank">Weed Management - University of Illinois Extension</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1144&title=weed-control-options-for-the-home-vegetable-gardener" target="_blank">Weed Control for Vegetable Gardens - University of Georgia Extension</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs058/" target="_blank">Mulches for Vegetable Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.fohvos.info/wp-content/uploads/2023_Strike_Team_Control_Mix_Guide_2023_09_26.pdf" target="_blank">New Jersey Invasive Strike Team - Herbicide Use Suggestions - FoHVOS</a><br /></p><p><a href="https://sarep.ucdavis.edu/sustainable-ag/ipm" target="_blank">Integrated Pest Management - UC Davis - SAREP</a><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />BCMGhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09749821178056288107noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-81930712821720721282024-01-05T09:43:00.000-08:002024-01-17T08:21:06.791-08:00At Home with Houseplants<p><span style="font-family: inherit;">On a cold dark day in January, the green and cream striped
leaves of the ‘Birkin’ philodendron are a welcome sight.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">As are the jagged fleshy spikes of the
succulent aloe. Or perhaps it’s the soft ovate leaves and colorful flowers of
the African violet that gives us a sense winter won’t last so long after all. The
somewhat finicky ficus has many enthusiastic followers as do tropical indoor
ferns. Anyone can benefit from keeping an indoor garden and a myriad of plants
will grow in interior environments.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">However,
there is one thing that every indoor plant has in common--they all need the
right conditions to thrive. Taking proper care of them is not so daunting once
you know how.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg3QuIYKvvyFbgy7d7SuQ9ENp1qEoqK1_T6Cj8ap29ZejoHNHLZ0wUIgbiaLDaVnYfuIR4pPDO6DVwaLPTjY9QIPMzOlOEpK4ottjed3QeZI8KkFnrOdywIxnqA-oxToM6b6tXQUZ_1yWUyw-7aVlU7aOkSmQ3inT5Os8qzMTyjA7drrAl4nJEXc0a9rZM" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="351" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg3QuIYKvvyFbgy7d7SuQ9ENp1qEoqK1_T6Cj8ap29ZejoHNHLZ0wUIgbiaLDaVnYfuIR4pPDO6DVwaLPTjY9QIPMzOlOEpK4ottjed3QeZI8KkFnrOdywIxnqA-oxToM6b6tXQUZ_1yWUyw-7aVlU7aOkSmQ3inT5Os8qzMTyjA7drrAl4nJEXc0a9rZM=w216-h288" width="216" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i>Birkin philodendron (Philodendron ‘Birkin’) is a compact
variety with white stripes on its leaves. Philodendron come in both climbing
and non-climbing types. This plant is an easy to care for houseplant, requiring
medium light and can even tolerate some neglect.</i> Photo credit: Iowa State
University Extension and Outreach</p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Not only do houseplants beautify our homes, but they provide
a host of other benefits as well. Plants can help us emotionally by connecting
us with nature at times when going outside is difficult. Plants take in carbon
dioxide and in turn provide us with fresh oxygen. Indoor plants serve as décor
for our homes and some, like a potted citrus tree, can even provide us with
food.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi5Ver5f278SeWhUd267aGeTB7Umj3gjBVGBKOsy4dv3XyBPslk5s7aw873IoNi3_NS3DHWP9m73bwkyx6o7o30caukO32u-to11OQo6ihcyDqXkx1g5OF1N1N52-jWLqxmJTTF44Tjug4V7Qyru_FzFqPKNovLD7DxGc7c6KuwU0aoMXDc8rOupqP9KRU" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="357" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi5Ver5f278SeWhUd267aGeTB7Umj3gjBVGBKOsy4dv3XyBPslk5s7aw873IoNi3_NS3DHWP9m73bwkyx6o7o30caukO32u-to11OQo6ihcyDqXkx1g5OF1N1N52-jWLqxmJTTF44Tjug4V7Qyru_FzFqPKNovLD7DxGc7c6KuwU0aoMXDc8rOupqP9KRU=w220-h293" width="220" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;"><i>Potted African violet
(Saintpaulia ionantha) with pink flowers. African violets prefer indirect light
and moist soil conditions. </i>Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Burlington County
Master Gardener<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtCoMPnnw8FOo2n00tt_Z-DEyZcEB0um0pz4k-axrWGuoPPZsgVgwRoeUQY1TyJc76SM-Wr18y_C3HC8h6E6kzDSiRvAJUktPwmY78YmS60-KD9ZerGy7oovIXHzjdLDSxcZr4KmpW2bCQQDqCU5yNTYrNXRUHpHUgAafn9rsF5mezIx85O67JqbTgNq0" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="476" data-original-width="357" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtCoMPnnw8FOo2n00tt_Z-DEyZcEB0um0pz4k-axrWGuoPPZsgVgwRoeUQY1TyJc76SM-Wr18y_C3HC8h6E6kzDSiRvAJUktPwmY78YmS60-KD9ZerGy7oovIXHzjdLDSxcZr4KmpW2bCQQDqCU5yNTYrNXRUHpHUgAafn9rsF5mezIx85O67JqbTgNq0=w210-h280" width="210" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i>Aloe (Aloe vera) with “pups”. Propagate aloe by removing
the pups from the main plant and repotting them. Aloe needs bright light and
sandy soil that dries out between waterings. “Gel” from the aloe plant can be
used to heal skin irritations. </i>Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Burlington County
Master Gardener<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Many typical houseplants are tropical plants that evolved in
natural understory environments with plenty of humidity and dappled shade. For
example, the exotic looking holiday cacti (<i>Shlumbergera</i> species) evolved
in the mountainous rainforests of South America. They need high humidity,
bright but filtered light, and moist well-drained soil. It is important to keep
in mind the needs of houseplants regarding light, water, temperature, and
fertilizer. It is also important to know
how to deter pests. Take a look at the label when you buy your plant, it will
have important information about how to properly care for it.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4XELV0NSZSXaWflVVSJ6Y6xGznkvKaM3rORl_uRcYtZnIcABFkPLw6Y7shgMqotf0R2Qbd7yy4hv1-zX3GP75oSIwRCrbYqr1zGQx5tEgoZs-Bgc-21QqmJGyCFQSpj7yrZFJaJgHTiRmIcNHmvtXOYnoCbT9fCrV-33r_hkntf64jk4NEbvRA14iMVM" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="413" data-original-width="413" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4XELV0NSZSXaWflVVSJ6Y6xGznkvKaM3rORl_uRcYtZnIcABFkPLw6Y7shgMqotf0R2Qbd7yy4hv1-zX3GP75oSIwRCrbYqr1zGQx5tEgoZs-Bgc-21QqmJGyCFQSpj7yrZFJaJgHTiRmIcNHmvtXOYnoCbT9fCrV-33r_hkntf64jk4NEbvRA14iMVM" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Christmas Cactus in Bloom </i></div><div style="text-align: center;">Credit: University of Minnesota Extension</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>Location/Light Requirements:<o:p></o:p></b></p><div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The old gardener’s adage of “right plant for the right
place” applies to houseplants as well as outdoor plants. Choose a location that
provides the right amount of light for the plant you are growing. Some
houseplants prefer direct southern sunlight while others can tolerate a darker
corner. Keep in mind that many plants need bright, but indirect light. Ideally
house plants should receive natural light from a window, but grow lights can
also be used.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Watering:<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Know your plants water requirements. Overwatering is the
most common mistake gardeners make. Most houseplants need good drainage, they
do not like to sit in water-logged soil. Indoor gardeners, especially when the
heat inside is running continuously, are afraid their plants will dry out.
However, paying attention to soil moisture in the pot will help to adequately
gauge if the plant needs to be watered. Stick
a finger in the soil up to the first knuckle to determine how much water is still
in the soil. A water meter for plants can be handy as well. Another trick is to
lift the pot to see if it feels light or heavy with water. Use room temperature
water to not shock the plant.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Most houseplants like humidity. Consider running a
humidifier to provide extra moisture in the air. Grouping plants together can
help as well as filling a tray with water for evaporation. Misting with a spray
bottle may help some, but its effects are short lived.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>Temperature:<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">In general, houseplants enjoy the same temperatures as
people do, 60-80 degrees during the day and 5-10 degrees lower at night. Some
houseplants will enjoy a vacation outside during the summer months, but bring
plants back inside when the weather gets colder.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Fertilizing and Repotting:<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fertilize when plants are growing. In the late spring and
summer warmer temperatures and increased light promote growth. Some plants,
like succulents though, don’t need any high nitrogen fertilizer.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Spring is the best time to transplant or re-pot your
houseplants. Check to see if plants have become root-bound and provide a larger
pot. Use any soil or soil-less potting medium that is suitable for houseplants.
Do not use soil from outdoors as it could be a source of pests.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Pests and Diseases:<o:p></o:p></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Even indoor plants have to combat pests at times. Common
pests are mealybugs, mites, scale, fungus gnats, and whitefly. The first step
is to identify the pest. Additionally, some fungal diseases can cause root and
stem rot as well as spots on the leaves. If you can, change the conditions that
favored the pest or disease in the first place. Maybe your soil remained too
wet or the plant was stressed because it didn’t get enough water. Perhaps the
pest was able to thrive in hot, dry air. At times it may be necessary to clean
the foliage. Use a wet cloth to wipe away dust and dirt from the leaves.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">If you are a gardener who would be happy if your Monstera grew
into a monster (they can grow 16 feet or more), do your research and give your plant
the conditions it requires. A range of plants are available for a variety of
indoor environments. Choose the one (or many!) that will work best for you. With
the right knowledge, indoor gardeners can surely make their plants feel right
at home.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u>Additional Resources:<o:p></o:p></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Cornell Cooperative Extension, “Houseplant Care”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://allegany.cce.cornell.edu/gardening/houseplant-care">https://allegany.cce.cornell.edu/gardening/houseplant-care</a><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Indoor Gardens: Just for the Health of It by Joel Flagler</p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://sebsnjaesnews.rutgers.edu/2022/09/indoor-gardens-just-for-the-health-of-it/">https://sebsnjaesnews.rutgers.edu/2022/09/indoor-gardens-just-for-the-health-of-it/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Penn State Extension, “Caring for Houseplants”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://extension.psu.edu/caring-for-houseplants">https://extension.psu.edu/caring-for-houseplants</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Clemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information
Center, “Common Houseplant Insects and Related Pests”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/">https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">University of Connecticut, “Fertilizing Houseplants”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.cce.cornell.edu/attachments/18531/FertilizingHouseplants.pdf?1478879035">https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.cce.cornell.edu/attachments/18531/FertilizingHouseplants.pdf?1478879035</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Real Dirt Blog by the UC Master Gardeners of Butte
County, “Cactus from the Rainforest: Christmas Cactus”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=50947">https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=50947</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Penn State Extension, “African Violet Care”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://extension.psu.edu/african-violet-care">https://extension.psu.edu/african-violet-care</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">University Of New Hampshire, “What Should I Know About
Growing Aloe at Home?”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2019/01/what-should-i-know-about-growing-aloe-home">https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2019/01/what-should-i-know-about-growing-aloe-home</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, “Monstera
Deliciosa”<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/monstera-deliciosa/">https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/monstera-deliciosa/</a><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p><p></p>Alysonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09066943307765942202noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-50113994922692406192019-05-31T05:04:00.000-07:002019-05-31T05:04:40.582-07:00Welcome to Mosquito Season<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the unofficial start of summer, now is a good time to start planning to reduce the number of mosquitoes around your home. Worldwide there are approximately 3500 species of mosquitoes. They live in almost every region of the earth from subarctic to the tropics. As of 2015, 63 species of mosquitoes were found in New Jersey. Mosquitoes are members of the order Diptera. The word Diptera comes from the Greek di which means two and ptera which means wing. The order Diptera also includes the common housefly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Like other true flies, mosquitoes undergo a complete metamorphosis: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The larvae are anatomically different than the adult mosquito, it lives in a different habit and feeds on different nutrients. The pupa is a non-feeding stage.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvyHHiOs7hpmWggr6N4UH0QvoqEcuH3rHca4_GbYlId2p9OmsSl19kF1fp2K94eMkBRTDVaKhsuBaMooOdWGplXOYn50w9vRKpEXf2stUmefsJ-WOOJ7XdZ7acZdB-4Tl2bwkPntPo7r5X/s1600/Lifecycle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="800" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvyHHiOs7hpmWggr6N4UH0QvoqEcuH3rHca4_GbYlId2p9OmsSl19kF1fp2K94eMkBRTDVaKhsuBaMooOdWGplXOYn50w9vRKpEXf2stUmefsJ-WOOJ7XdZ7acZdB-4Tl2bwkPntPo7r5X/s320/Lifecycle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosquito life cycle - Knox County Tennessee</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mosquito larvae are uniquely adapted for aquatic life. They need oxygen for respiration and water-borne particles for food. The larva feed on micro-organisms and organic material in the water where they breed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mosquito Larvae Videos from the University of New Hampshire - Center of Freshwater Biology </span><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://cfb.unh.edu/Vernal_Pool_Page/media/Adultfairyshrimp.mov" target="_blank">Mosquito larvae with siphons in air bubble</a></li>
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<li><a href="http://cfb.unh.edu/Vernal_Pool_Page/media/Mosquito_feed_clean.mov" target="_blank">Mosquito feeding and cleaning</a></li>
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<li><a href="http://cfb.unh.edu/Vernal_Pool_Page/media/Underwater7April09.mov" target="_blank">Underwater view of vernal pool</a></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Both the male and female mosquito get their protein from nectar. The female mosquito feeds on blood to obtain the nutrients she needs to produce eggs. The reaction to the saliva that the female mosquito injects when feeding is what causes itching. Depending on the species a female mosquito may lay between 50-500 eggs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The illustration below from a CDC(Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) manual shows three of the most common mosquito genera and some of their chief characteristics.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzREiBEsShp5vg4j2BXfGl3SNM4HF4oVmaSXUYdBy1vYjcqrOwEr5iVCfdjxM3JehsVSNGikI6mhyphenhyphenTxit-C453-akeAdxajDf3QEa7IrZsd14QL2n6Ey1NsKv-_tJjFoOKymyDBKRwvMNq/s1600/mos_eggs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="128" data-original-width="600" height="68" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzREiBEsShp5vg4j2BXfGl3SNM4HF4oVmaSXUYdBy1vYjcqrOwEr5iVCfdjxM3JehsVSNGikI6mhyphenhyphenTxit-C453-akeAdxajDf3QEa7IrZsd14QL2n6Ey1NsKv-_tJjFoOKymyDBKRwvMNq/s320/mos_eggs.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xlkYCUhpneWhCWU06_C-XYaI-tKqrmP36T-Lq-e4mGsowjYerDqro6KdSQu54ZiXT4o-N8OChoJT3TcYgghsn95lt9nImfNyYZqU2ZBgYk4RQHHyfzLLKMlLE2Ic58FfkGs_mkDYPEb7/s1600/mos_larvae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="600" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xlkYCUhpneWhCWU06_C-XYaI-tKqrmP36T-Lq-e4mGsowjYerDqro6KdSQu54ZiXT4o-N8OChoJT3TcYgghsn95lt9nImfNyYZqU2ZBgYk4RQHHyfzLLKMlLE2Ic58FfkGs_mkDYPEb7/s320/mos_larvae.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3MK165-duoYzL9FhA14wZpnGcHDZLKq2Cl_OgOT-35Ka3HGU_C9lLBHJDJuJX5P7xXBOAgYWNiTPMvUSMZNJxx4wQksa6yoNAKiaD5DcGQQTkx7zt-UY3U5oNV8bFlBaTr7nnYEPYB3p/s1600/mos_pupae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="108" data-original-width="600" height="57" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3MK165-duoYzL9FhA14wZpnGcHDZLKq2Cl_OgOT-35Ka3HGU_C9lLBHJDJuJX5P7xXBOAgYWNiTPMvUSMZNJxx4wQksa6yoNAKiaD5DcGQQTkx7zt-UY3U5oNV8bFlBaTr7nnYEPYB3p/s320/mos_pupae.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxicqPHLi82GuJwPFnHcOHZcnsPFGue8ab1mU-Y2JT0j1pOxofMuNw9hwd0MzSmX0fbFl8n4abPH3HLbe1gpgN5J6Q_ua87t2tFn5JAI8JGp07xkRM97XdA2myp2HVP0I3pEybxhbkmf_1/s1600/mos_adults.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="229" data-original-width="600" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxicqPHLi82GuJwPFnHcOHZcnsPFGue8ab1mU-Y2JT0j1pOxofMuNw9hwd0MzSmX0fbFl8n4abPH3HLbe1gpgN5J6Q_ua87t2tFn5JAI8JGp07xkRM97XdA2myp2HVP0I3pEybxhbkmf_1/s320/mos_adults.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz_f_lF4FGZ-47OiNOtgXL0pI-hkBJ8lfvfA6J31BdaZlx5kHe-ii59wLargLVi6bGUMM7GtsMPWmtbY6V9iLCCfscg8-raE9_UwDqmFiETgHIvBbcQjdjfZf-XlQJEJIG9DhIM9mqhr6/s1600/mos_adult_rest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="113" data-original-width="600" height="59" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz_f_lF4FGZ-47OiNOtgXL0pI-hkBJ8lfvfA6J31BdaZlx5kHe-ii59wLargLVi6bGUMM7GtsMPWmtbY6V9iLCCfscg8-raE9_UwDqmFiETgHIvBbcQjdjfZf-XlQJEJIG9DhIM9mqhr6/s320/mos_adult_rest.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This interesting photograph shows the proboscis of a mosquito. The proboscis is the mouth part of the female mosquito that is used for sucking blood.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnCxTsB4-Jtp4yakDbCSo-hjQ_gCa8p3bo5bcXzr316LK8fc76dsE5iAZx_YPaJXkp17cSUj_RCKXZqbtmRqxBIUkaDYoDfS-LLDoAFsHi8ExcxLtlqKPDzJum20YHKuMLx3744noW8bcI/s1600/compare2-768x785.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="785" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnCxTsB4-Jtp4yakDbCSo-hjQ_gCa8p3bo5bcXzr316LK8fc76dsE5iAZx_YPaJXkp17cSUj_RCKXZqbtmRqxBIUkaDYoDfS-LLDoAFsHi8ExcxLtlqKPDzJum20YHKuMLx3744noW8bcI/s320/compare2-768x785.png" width="313" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mosquito proboscis - <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4625056/figure/F1/" target="_blank">Copyright © 2015</a> Choo, Buss, Tan and Leal. Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). Front Physiol. 2015; 6: 306. Published online 2015 Oct 29. doi: <a href="https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fphys.2015.00306/full" target="_blank">10.31389/fphys.2015.00306</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sometime insects like the one pictured below are mistaken for mosquitoes. The easiest way to tell the difference between a crane fly and a mosquito is by observing the mouth parts. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDX6aJij9NGLJFZ8feZU8Dd-WLEfsL1NuPud-rzH_3lafKPWQYpoMaGNNHbIng1qgP16-afi_UWtUHlcMeukiUcB7_OehuxpBqIeJ2DtmvkV2O7ZAhNEGDiJVhk5gefUnPaxyqn8RZ3Xsw/s1600/crane-fly-xcu-300x220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDX6aJij9NGLJFZ8feZU8Dd-WLEfsL1NuPud-rzH_3lafKPWQYpoMaGNNHbIng1qgP16-afi_UWtUHlcMeukiUcB7_OehuxpBqIeJ2DtmvkV2O7ZAhNEGDiJVhk5gefUnPaxyqn8RZ3Xsw/s1600/crane-fly-xcu-300x220.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crane fly - notice the missing proboscis - Texas A&&M AgriLife Extension</td></tr>
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<b><u>Control</u></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Water is necessary for mosquito development. By eliminating sources of standing water, the number of mosquitoes will be reduced. Listed below are some of the common methods that you and your neighbors can use to reduce the sources of standing water and control the mosquito population in your neighborhood.</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remove old tires or drill holes in those used for playground equipment to allow them to drain. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Check boats for holding water, clear drain holes, turn over, cover or increase angle to aid drainage.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Check tarps on boats or other equipment/items that may collect water in pockets or indentations.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remove vegetation or obstructions in drainage ditches that prevent the flow of water.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pick up broken, unused or discarded toys that hold water.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pick up all beverage containers and cups.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Replace water in birdbaths once a week.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Replace water in pet and other animal feeding dishes or troughs at least once a week.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fill tree holes (hardwood trees) that hold water with spray, insulating foam sealant.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Position garbage cans and lids so they don’t hold water.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Change water in planters, including hanging plants, at least once a week.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Maintain gutters so water drains properly.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monitor all types of drainage pipes/systems for standing water.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fix dripping outdoor faucets that create pools of water.</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Female mosquitoes find a host by using a combination cues like CO2, vision and thermal sensory information to detect body heat. Mosquito repellents are used to block a female mosquito's ability to detect a host. Listed below is a table the summarizes the effectiveness of various mosquito repellents.</span><br />
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<tr align="left" valign="top"><td><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="t1"></a><strong>Table 1. Summary of effectiveness of mosquito repellents reported by Fradin, M. S. and J. F. Day. 2002. Comparative efficacy of insect repellents against mosquito bites. New England Journal of Medicine 347: 13 – 18.</strong></td></tr>
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<tr align="left" valign="top"><td><strong>Product</strong><sup>1</sup></td><td><strong>Active Ingredient</strong></td><td><strong>Minutes of Complete<br />Protection</strong></td><td><strong>Evaluation</strong><sup>2</sup></td></tr>
<tr><td>Off! Deep Woods</td><td>23.8% Deet</td><td align="center">302</td><td align="center">A</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sawyer Controlled Release</td><td>20% Deet</td><td align="center">234</td><td align="center">B</td></tr>
<tr><td>Off! Skintastic</td><td>6.7% Deet</td><td align="center">112</td><td align="center">C</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bite Blocker for Kids</td><td>2% Soy oil</td><td align="center">95</td><td align="center">D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Skin-So-Soft Bug Guard Plus</td><td>7.5% IR3535</td><td align="center">23</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Natrapel</td><td>10% citronella</td><td align="center">20</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Herbal Armor</td><td>12% citronella<br />
2.5% peppermint oil<br />
2% cedar oil<br />
1% lemongrass oil<br />
0.05% geranium oil</td><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Green Ban for People</td><td>10% citronella<br />
2% peppermint oil</td><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Buzz Away</td><td>5% citronella</td><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Skin-So-Soft Bug Guard</td><td>0.1% citronella</td><td align="center">10</td><td align="center">E</td></tr>
<tr><td>Skin-So-Soft Moisturizing Sun Care</td><td>0.05% citronella</td><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">F</td></tr>
<tr><td>Gone Original Wristband</td><td>9.5% Deet</td><td align="center">0.3</td><td align="center">G</td></tr>
<tr><td>Repello Wristbande</td><td>9.5% Deet</td><td align="center">0.2</td><td align="center">H</td></tr>
<tr><td>Gone Plus Repelling Wristband</td><td>25% citronella</td><td align="center">0.2</td><td align="center">H</td></tr>
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<tr align="left" valign="top"><td><sup>1</sup>May or may not be available for purchase or registered for use in New Jersey.<br />
<sup>2</sup>Letters indicate groups of repellents that are statistically similar; e.g., the six repellents in category E are statistically similar to each other.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #3e3e3e; font-size: 14.4px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By eliminating the larval habitats on your property and taking a few simple precautions, you can reduce the threat of mosquito-borne illness and annoyance in and around your home and neighborhood.</span></span><br />
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<b><u>Additional Information</u></b><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.epa.gov/mosquitocontrol/bti-mosquito-control" target="_blank">Bti for Mosquito Control - US Environmental Protection Agency</a><br />
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<a href="https://citybugs.tamu.edu/2016/03/15/crane-flies/" target="_blank">Crane flies, not mosquitoes - Texas A&M AgriLife Extension</a><br />
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<a href="https://stroudcenter.org/macros/" target="_blank">Macroinvertebrate Resources - Stroud Center Water Resources</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.mosquito.org/default.aspx" target="_blank">The American Mosquito Control Association</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://asiantigermosquito.rutgers.edu/" target="_blank">The Asian Tiger Mosquito - Center for Vector Biology - Rutgers University</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.co.burlington.nj.us/469/Mosquito-Control" target="_blank">Burlington County Mosquito Control Division</a><br />
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<b><u>References</u></b><br />
Anonymous, 1967. CDC Manual. Pictorial Keys. Arthropods, Reptiles, Birds and Mammals of Public Health Significance. US/HEW, Public Health Service. 192 pp.
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-12454438134402764212019-03-03T14:18:00.000-08:002019-03-03T14:19:23.787-08:00Asian Longhorned Tick - A New Invasive Species<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is a new invasive species in New Jersey: the longhorned tick (<i>Haemaphysalis longicornis)</i>. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The longhorned tick is a member of the family </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ixodidae</i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> which means that it is a hard tick. Hard ticks have three distinct life stages. Depending on the temperature, the tick's eggs usually hatch between 60-90 days. When the larva emerge from the eggs they have three sets of legs. After having a blood meal they molt and become nymphs and acquire four sets of legs. Nymphs feed for approximately 7 days and detach. The nymph then spends about 40 days living under the vegetation before molting and becoming an adult which also has four sets of legs.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5okSdeej8uuSSd1Ufdbf_jVeTa7HcWDwzZZ-rFRIJUYMscy1VwGsB79xzfdGCTkaMu7Vp9KNQdUim59TWVrv7ZT3LiDp3ITM0yDCKomSjZ-gRVF0G9TX5qkKSZplWMtJr1P1TxK_DhAh/s1600/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+larva.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="669" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil5okSdeej8uuSSd1Ufdbf_jVeTa7HcWDwzZZ-rFRIJUYMscy1VwGsB79xzfdGCTkaMu7Vp9KNQdUim59TWVrv7ZT3LiDp3ITM0yDCKomSjZ-gRVF0G9TX5qkKSZplWMtJr1P1TxK_DhAh/s320/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+larva.jpg" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Larva (Source: lucidcentral.org)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1sezElgbtSbCg57Ojpf1berAwYKEjwdCHIUPuuHkI01M3fyrKtfYz_CgLFOqjsNtJQvMj1Md5-U_gF-oIKdJ5wiB7m_65xb-RqFnaAazCIvA0w5sxo9C5UDoRnzB_39TDNGFWSfdlr_h/s1600/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+nymph.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="669" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU1sezElgbtSbCg57Ojpf1berAwYKEjwdCHIUPuuHkI01M3fyrKtfYz_CgLFOqjsNtJQvMj1Md5-U_gF-oIKdJ5wiB7m_65xb-RqFnaAazCIvA0w5sxo9C5UDoRnzB_39TDNGFWSfdlr_h/s320/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+nymph.jpg" width="202" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nymph (Source: lucidcentral.org)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxg8RpnyHBh1MDEfwjeCfH5TQNVNpXxeNeTsPd6kbWWK8HET6mECu9O6wJGBPIR-Xlpmr_j2McRBCS217Dk4OLxdzH-usAEXEQTgHkbfAZBqrrqaXWDuG_c8WR0vd3Cma1Yo3g-jyYbGL/s1600/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+male.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1109" data-original-width="629" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxg8RpnyHBh1MDEfwjeCfH5TQNVNpXxeNeTsPd6kbWWK8HET6mECu9O6wJGBPIR-Xlpmr_j2McRBCS217Dk4OLxdzH-usAEXEQTgHkbfAZBqrrqaXWDuG_c8WR0vd3Cma1Yo3g-jyYbGL/s320/Haemaphysalis+longicornis+male.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male (Source: lucidcentral.org)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The longhorned tick finds a host using a behavior called "questing". A questing tick crawls up the stems of grass or perches on the edge of leaves. When the tick detects a host it uses its extended front legs to attach itself to the host.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJuS3eReFN-yAt9udg2Okz2DXy1L3I27n8sAezLaT0bKi9HJDZJCnpUbXBsYxomrdIZG-JUMIeUUHC4TtxQ5k5s4uLphAlKXOxYEKVZBEkyRxYhBGaxRTua-7oIq5QdJbWV13lVWSJg2tx/s1600/questing_Female_I.scap.FULL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJuS3eReFN-yAt9udg2Okz2DXy1L3I27n8sAezLaT0bKi9HJDZJCnpUbXBsYxomrdIZG-JUMIeUUHC4TtxQ5k5s4uLphAlKXOxYEKVZBEkyRxYhBGaxRTua-7oIq5QdJbWV13lVWSJg2tx/s320/questing_Female_I.scap.FULL.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Questing Tick<br />
Credit: Graham J. Hickling, The University of Tennessee. Public domain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">fter having fed on a host for about seven days, the female detaches itself and begins searching for a suitable place to lay eggs. Within 1-2 weeks the female tick will lay around 2,000 eggs during a 2-3 week period. Because the longhorned tick is a parthenogenesis species, it can reproduce asexually. The female does not require a male tick to reproduce.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the longhorned tick is new to New Jersey it has been a pest in New Zealand for decades. In New Zealand the tick has been found on the following animals.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mammals</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Brushtail possum (Trichosurus vulpecula), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cat (Felis domesticus), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cattle (Bos taurus), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dog (Canis familiaris), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Donkey (Equus asinus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Goat (Capra hircus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Horse (Equus caballus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">House mouse (Mus musculus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pig (Sus scrofa),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Rabbit (Lepus cuniculus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sheep (Ovis aries)</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Birds</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dosmestic duck (Anas boscas var), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Domestic fowl (Gallus gallus), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">House sparrow (Passer domesticus), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Kiwi, Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Skylark (Alauda arvensis), </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thrush (Turdus philomelus),</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Turkey (Meleagris gallipavo)</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>Prevention</u></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Most tick bites can be prevented. Some of the simple things you can do to prevent exposure to ticks are:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Avoid areas bushy and grassy areas where ticks normally live.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wear light colored clothing which makes it easier to identify ticks.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wear clothing and boots that have been treated products containing 0.5% permethrin.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Use Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) registered insect repellants.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Walk in the center of trails.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Check you clothing and body for ticks after you have been outside.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Shower soon after you have been outdoors.</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>Tick Removal</u></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Removing a tick isn't difficult. Here are the simple steps for removing a tick:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Use a pointed tick removal tweezer</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Disinfect the area with rubbing alcohol</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Grab tick close to skin and use slow, steady motion to pull tick out</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Disinfect the area again</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Consider Tick Testing for infection</span></li>
</ol>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here is a short video that demonstrates the proper method for removing a tick.</span><br />
<br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="413" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0wotB38WrRY?rel=0" width="550"></iframe>
</center>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><u><b>Identification</b></u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you find a tick you can bring it to the Rutgers Cooperative Extension office located at 2 Academy Dr, Westampton, NJ 08060 for identification. Ticks should be placed in a sealed plastic bag or a container with a small piece of moist paper towel to prevent dehydration. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><u>Additional Information</u></b></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/tickbornediseases/tick-bites-prevention.html" target="_blank">Tick Bites Prevention</a> - Centers for Disease Control and Prevention<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vectorbio.rutgers.edu/outreach/exotickID.php" target="_blank">How to Recognize a Longhorned Tick</a> - Center for Vector Biology, Rutgers University<br />
<br />
<a href="http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/Faculty/Robert_B_Kimsey/Kimsey_Research/Tick_Biology/" target="_blank">Tick Biology</a> - UC Davis, Department of Entomology and Nematology<br />
<br />
<a href="https://tickencounter.org/" target="_blank">TickEncounter Resource Center</a> - University of Rhode Island<br />
<br />
<a href="http://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/tei-Bio23Tuat01-t1-body-d4.html" target="_blank">Zoogeography of the New Zealand Tick Fauna</a> - University of Wellington, New Zealand<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-30323251398739086302018-07-31T11:55:00.000-07:002019-02-19T06:26:06.792-08:00Recent Rutgers Adivisories and News<br />
<a href="https://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/ipm-update-7-25-18-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2/" target="_blank">IPM Update</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/fruit-ipm-for-7-27-18/" target="_blank">Fruit IPM for July, 27, 2018</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/spotted-lanternfly-in-nj/" target="_blank">Spotted Lanternfly in New Jersey</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://sebsnjaesnews.rutgers.edu/2018/06/rutgers-led-tick-blitz-finds-exotic-longhorned-ticks-and-aggressive-lone-star-ticks-in-new-locations-across-new-jersey/" target="_blank">Rutgers Led "Tick Blitz" Finds Exotic Longhorned Ticks and Aggressive Lone Star Tick in New Locations Across New Jersey</a><br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-13713184285482660532018-07-24T08:41:00.002-07:002018-07-24T08:41:35.288-07:00Spiderwort <br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The genus name honors John Tradescant (1570-1638) and his son John
Tradescant (1608-1662), botanists and successive gardeners to Charles I
of England.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Spiderwort (<i>Tradescantia virginiana</i>) is native wildflower. A herbaceous plant that grows up to three feet tall. Noted for its three-petaled violet-blue flowers with six contrasting yellow stamens which grow in terminal clusters. The flowers open a few at a time and for only one day. The root system is thick, fleshy, and fibrous, sending off occasional offshoots nearby. Spidewort thrives in thickets, meadows, roadsides and woodland borders.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the flowers are beautiful, spiderwort can take over a flower bed. Spiderwort is difficult control because of its large root crown which provides energy for regrowth. In small areas and hand removal is the best method of control.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2qSme2e833Vz4lmvPGr6pit-oYfD6ITTCAjxYTEJRSLtD4iy0g-WKDlqX0n50xB9g7mouTvtm-JGFLE2nSEN-2-FnkONkM7xNdEktz17G4ivEq8PCw2qEfG_DlmMTKZclk0tYG1SJEm-/s1600/Spiderwort.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="350" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2qSme2e833Vz4lmvPGr6pit-oYfD6ITTCAjxYTEJRSLtD4iy0g-WKDlqX0n50xB9g7mouTvtm-JGFLE2nSEN-2-FnkONkM7xNdEktz17G4ivEq8PCw2qEfG_DlmMTKZclk0tYG1SJEm-/s400/Spiderwort.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , "geneva" , "swiss" ,;"><i>Tradescantia virginiana</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b><u>Additional Information</u></b><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=m630" target="_blank">Tradescantia virginiana - Missouri Botanical Garden</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/cs_trvi.pdf" target="_blank">Virginia Spiderwort -USDA Nation Resources Conservation Service</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://britisharchaeology.ashmus.ox.ac.uk/collections/tradescant.html" target="_blank">The Collectors: Tradescants</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/phag/2015/04/17/spiderwort-spreading-and-could-become-a-hay-field-pest/" target="_blank">Spiderwort spreading and could become a hay field pest - University of Florida</a>
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<br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-43592646504615942232018-06-06T06:45:00.000-07:002018-06-06T06:45:17.145-07:00New Pest on the Rise - Spotted Lanterfly<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Spotted Lanternfly, <i>Lycorma delicatula</i> (White) is neither fly nor a month. The Spotted Lanternfly is a native insect of China, India and Vietnam and an invasive planthopper. At first, the spotted lanterfly had only been found in Berks County, Pennsylvania. Recently, individuals have been found in Virginia, New York and Delaware.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The spotted lanternfly has been reported from <b>over 70 species of plants</b>, including the following:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tree of heaven (<i>Ailanthus altissima</i>) (preferred host)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Apple (<i>Malus spp.</i>)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plum, cherry, peach, apricot (<i>Prunus spp.</i>)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Grape (<i>Vitis spp.</i>)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pine (<i>Pinus spp.</i>) </span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adults are 1 inch long and ½ inch wide at rest. The forewing is gray
with black spots of varying sizes and the wing tips have black spots
outlined in gray. Hind wings have contrasting patches of red and black
with a white band. The legs and head are black, and the abdomen is
yellow with black bands. Early immature stages are black with white spots. By the last immature stage they develop red patches in addition to the black color with
white spots. This is the last immature stage before they mature into an
adult. Immature insect and adults are visually
striking when the bright red of the hind wings is exposed.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWdProDmntkJRXGDjgx6mxH-E2-Gk3ygYXPazYEqFGohqvJopoV_v5PhfUimGrxT_Gtib6SEb52HrUelkoxhPIoYlvMcnm6VJcYiODWmgTtWTkp3Z7rlrhGplrNl9eeWUQ6FGxqMZ8HVdC/s1600/spotted-lantern-fly-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="201" data-original-width="449" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWdProDmntkJRXGDjgx6mxH-E2-Gk3ygYXPazYEqFGohqvJopoV_v5PhfUimGrxT_Gtib6SEb52HrUelkoxhPIoYlvMcnm6VJcYiODWmgTtWTkp3Z7rlrhGplrNl9eeWUQ6FGxqMZ8HVdC/s1600/spotted-lantern-fly-1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of Lawrence Beringer, Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZih4n6oMT2rsBK_RmO8qzWlBpKKkskilAbXDA4ZpdOByht-aibTC9TpVsK6msieobx3z2Ir-DH30YyhoahDkM9SncdHJsPk3SC1AaVa8ErG1gPvZsnXOcCt7slEe0PNfTJsii8GKgkQbK/s1600/slanternfly_adult_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="720" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZih4n6oMT2rsBK_RmO8qzWlBpKKkskilAbXDA4ZpdOByht-aibTC9TpVsK6msieobx3z2Ir-DH30YyhoahDkM9SncdHJsPk3SC1AaVa8ErG1gPvZsnXOcCt7slEe0PNfTJsii8GKgkQbK/s320/slanternfly_adult_0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adult Spotted Lanternfly (bugwood.org)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Adults feed by puncturing the plant tissue to feed on sap. The feeding damage can cause sap to run down the surface of the plant and encourages the growth of sooty mold which leaves dark streaks on the trunks of trees.</span><br />
<ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you think you have seen or collected a Spotted Lanternfly please report it
to the New Jersey Department of Agriculture and the Department of
Entomology at the Rutgers School of Environmental and Biological
Sciences by emailing <a href="mailto:slanternfly@njaes.rutgers.edu">slanternfly@njaes.rutgers.edu</a>.</span><br />
<br />
<b><u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Additional Information</span></u></b><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/spotted-lanternfly/" target="_blank">Spotted Lanterfly - New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.agriculture.pa.gov/Plants_Land_Water/PlantIndustry/Entomology/spotted_lanternfly/Pages/default.aspx" target="_blank">Spotted Lanterfly - Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://projects.ncsu.edu/goingnative/howto/mapping/invexse/treeofhe.html" target="_blank">Tree of Heaven - Invasive Exotic Plants of the Southeast - NC State University</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-63490066490674618072018-05-10T04:11:00.001-07:002018-05-14T04:29:35.670-07:00Gardening questions? Call 609-265-5050<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-14864960841320962912017-02-02T07:36:00.002-08:002017-02-02T07:36:35.138-08:00Winter Weeds Part 1- Annual Bluegrass<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Annual bluegrass (<i>Poa annua</i>) is one of the most common winter weeds in the United States. It looks similar to Kentucky bluegrass, but is a lighter shade of green and has shallower roots. When the weather get warm, it dies off, leaving brown patches in the affected area. </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9448jyGo53UOO0SB7mF7vUn1LCHFId7bVlfE6D_TbJVKFYMXnt2J-i6qIC45YmXsCWjF0vIdLuVlpnF3QeJsU9xJspUHetEfd5w-8TEM242MGxE1m24E3WGV5aXh1r1wa71w7Uf_Miev/s1600/Annual_Bluegrass_Affected_Area.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY9448jyGo53UOO0SB7mF7vUn1LCHFId7bVlfE6D_TbJVKFYMXnt2J-i6qIC45YmXsCWjF0vIdLuVlpnF3QeJsU9xJspUHetEfd5w-8TEM242MGxE1m24E3WGV5aXh1r1wa71w7Uf_Miev/s320/Annual_Bluegrass_Affected_Area.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Affected Area </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Keys to Identification
</span></b><br />
<ul><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Annual bluegrass grows 2 to 8 inches tall when unmowed.</span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">It is tolerant of mowing heights typical for home lawns. </span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The grass has a lighter green color (sometimes described as “apple green”) than other cool-season turfgrasses.</span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Annual bluegrass has flattened sheaths that are bent at the base and often rooted at the lower sheath joint. </span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Mature leaf blades are often rippled part way down and vary from 1 to 3 inches in length.</span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Leaf blades end with boat-shaped leaf tips. </span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The inflorescence (flowering structure) is a terminal panicle that varies from 1⁄2 to 4 inches in length. </span></li>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The majority of annual bluegrass seedheads are formed in spring (April to June).</span> </li>
</ul>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhjbBRUOhG5fKKqSuAEQoEGZb-Vgj8lEhoi8AObsPmRylJeKTiYT6pibu58qgOdh3ZLrQbviYMGyea-XvUyF3htO5ogBe4KYAV-UaDoOX4BKLXirjylacxBH55jczZIv4bXmTOJVtbCRH/s1600/annual_bluegrass_seedheads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhjbBRUOhG5fKKqSuAEQoEGZb-Vgj8lEhoi8AObsPmRylJeKTiYT6pibu58qgOdh3ZLrQbviYMGyea-XvUyF3htO5ogBe4KYAV-UaDoOX4BKLXirjylacxBH55jczZIv4bXmTOJVtbCRH/s1600/annual_bluegrass_seedheads.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annual bluegrass seed heads. <br />
Millie Davenport, © 2010, HGIC, Clemson Extension</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmZHYCNikji-oaRY3Ly0YdT1NsJp_opPUR6toDd8cQQIAez2Xt1RPMOq0XCahG1KPmQ8oH8j0CMshZpTvFYYAstbyvrFh_dVi84GFPQnnEKhHtxsKwRibcylUFXZbDM34wW5zz6ArTXsk/s1600/poaan0514w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmZHYCNikji-oaRY3Ly0YdT1NsJp_opPUR6toDd8cQQIAez2Xt1RPMOq0XCahG1KPmQ8oH8j0CMshZpTvFYYAstbyvrFh_dVi84GFPQnnEKhHtxsKwRibcylUFXZbDM34wW5zz6ArTXsk/s320/poaan0514w.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ripples on leaf.<br />
UMassAmhurst Extension Program</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbygkxdxj2-doP_tuQ-QzZfV8VVhwZpNWcLa8bp9HBITgtk5pE9NxoqQ-vi1bQ-KenFkiopwotXPPX6KGg4i986HM5s4DhhtJpcF8mLOMNWXmrjtOokmXz67P0Q8ReF8DcxWfKVboh5hyphenhyphenV/s1600/poa_ipm1024photo055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbygkxdxj2-doP_tuQ-QzZfV8VVhwZpNWcLa8bp9HBITgtk5pE9NxoqQ-vi1bQ-KenFkiopwotXPPX6KGg4i986HM5s4DhhtJpcF8mLOMNWXmrjtOokmXz67P0Q8ReF8DcxWfKVboh5hyphenhyphenV/s1600/poa_ipm1024photo055.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Control</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In small landscape beds, annual bluegrass can be hand dug or controlled with
an herbicide. It is best to prevent the spread of annual bluegrass by maintaining optimum cultural conditions
and using a 3-inch mulch layer to block weed development. Once annual
bluegrass has made its way into a landscape bed, an herbicide may be
necessary if hand pulling or hoeing is not practical.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Whenever using pesticides, always read and follow labeled directions or have pesticides professionally applied by a licensed pesticide applicator.
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Additional Information</span></b><br />
<br />
<a href="http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7464.html" target="_blank">Annual Bluegrass - University of California - IPM</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.asp?pid=FS072" target="_blank">Annual and Roughstalk Bluegrass Management for New Jersey Home Lawns - Rutgers University</a><br />
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<a href="https://turf.purdue.edu/tips/2005/poa512.htm" target="_blank">Which is it, Annual Bluegrass or Kentucky Bluegrass? - Purdue University</a><br />
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<a href="https://plants.usda.gov/java/ClassificationServlet?source=display&classid=POA" target="_blank">Poa L. - USDA Information</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/html_pubs/TURFGRAS/turf.html" target="_blank">Turfgrass Morphology - University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign </a><br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-34146054912002069852016-05-18T04:04:00.002-07:002016-05-18T04:04:54.760-07:00Rutgers Cooperative Extension of Cape May County hosting “Pollinator Victory Garden” Workshop<span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri";">Rutgers
Cooperative Extension of Cape May County is hosting “The Pollinator
Victory Garden: Winning the War on Pollinator Decline” on Wednesday,
June 8 from 5:30 to p.m., rain or shine, at Rutgers Cooperative
Extension, 355 Court House – South Dennis Road, Cape May Court House,
New Jersey.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri";"></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri";">Participants
will learn how to attract an array of pollinators, what plants they
eat, how to provide them with shelter, and how to help win the war on
pollinator decline.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri";">For more information <a href="http://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/rce-hosting-a-pollinator-victory-garden-workshop/" target="_blank">click here</a> .</span><br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-23760215308747902982016-05-03T14:50:00.000-07:002016-05-03T14:50:27.749-07:00IPM Related News and Stories - May 2nd<br />
Recent article from North Carolina Field and Family that describes the benefits of pollinators and some of the recent research on pollinator habits. Click the link below for more information.<br />
<a href="http://www.ncfieldfamily.org/farm/plotting-to-attract-pollinators/" target="_blank">Plotting to Attract Pollinators</a><br />
<br />
If you are thinking of using a rain barrel, the North Shore Mosquito Abatement District(NSMAD) has posted information that you may find useful.Click the link below for more information.<br />
<a href="http://www.nsmad.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/NSMAD-Rain-Barrel-Flyer_2016.pdf" target="_blank">NSMAD Rain Barrel Flyer</a> <br />
<br />
Some interesting articles on the resistance of insects, plants and diseases to human controls. Click the link below for more information.<br />
<a href="http://www.northeastipm.org/neipm/assets/File/Insights/InsightsApr2016.pdf" target="_blank">IPM Insights April 2016</a>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-83787182772663214082015-11-25T08:45:00.000-08:002015-11-25T08:45:17.367-08:00Home Invasion - Fall Insect Pests<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To survive the winter insects have developed different strategies to survive. Some insects lay eggs and die when temperatures fall below freezing. Other insects burrow in the ground or under piles of decaying plant material. Still others avoid the cold by migrating to warmer climates. As the temperature begins to fall, insects begin to look for a warm place to overwinter. One of the places where they can overwinter is in your home. Some of the most common overwintering insects that tend to invade homes are listed below.</span><br />
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<br />
<h3>
Boxelder bug (<i>Leptocoris trivittatus</i>)</h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvj50eYZXEKKgE0NfEd5NMkX8ip8cw0TaEoVNa9eX2-SIUqH8R_lwLwidCTE4wJIEOFHL2KKpDVFq2JC_qkL_MoRH2fSjlYBQAt9ANnG8OTcRQuBc3mVjYn-Mae9GrMUB9zTR7hckFX8WC/s1600/L_IMG_1_boxelder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvj50eYZXEKKgE0NfEd5NMkX8ip8cw0TaEoVNa9eX2-SIUqH8R_lwLwidCTE4wJIEOFHL2KKpDVFq2JC_qkL_MoRH2fSjlYBQAt9ANnG8OTcRQuBc3mVjYn-Mae9GrMUB9zTR7hckFX8WC/s320/L_IMG_1_boxelder.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="width: 495px;">Boxelder bug adult surrounded by nymphs. William M. Ciesla <br />Forest Health Management International</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The adult boxelder bug gets its name from their host plant the boxelder (<i>Acer negundo</i>). The boxelder bug is about 1/2 inch in length, and dark gray to brownish-black in color, with three red stripes on the thorax and wing margins.
The body is bright red. They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and feed mainly on seeds produced by female boxelders. Eggs are straw-yellow to rusty-red in color and are not often seen, as they are deposited on boxelder trees or other maples, or near the trees.
The nymphs, which are found on the trees, are bright red in color with the front half darker. Nymphs resemble adults but do not have fully developed wings and are not able to reproduce.
</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Multi-colored Asian lady beetle (<i>Harmonia axyridis</i>).</h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhPWf_KKFXLgC7WjbLHZXMH8hyphenhyphenpbzXhxwH-gc8hEUd0nm-_8AFgtmObeQ_jmOfIAW9DABcd68zJnKAKgRbmZBQF5NoYm40-ZURFFArez29y1cQfM-a0RI-ira0lBbk6MyhJE4rq-soq1x/s1600/2harmonia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhPWf_KKFXLgC7WjbLHZXMH8hyphenhyphenpbzXhxwH-gc8hEUd0nm-_8AFgtmObeQ_jmOfIAW9DABcd68zJnKAKgRbmZBQF5NoYm40-ZURFFArez29y1cQfM-a0RI-ira0lBbk6MyhJE4rq-soq1x/s1600/2harmonia.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asian lady beetles vary in color. Note the whitish area <br />
with M-shaped marking behind the head. <br />
University of Kentucky</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Asian lady beetle (<i>Harmonia axyridis</i>), is common throughout the United States. Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex, and about 1/4-inch long. Their color can vary widely from tan to orange to red. They often have several black spots on the wing covers. On some beetles the spots may be indistinct or entirely absent. Multi-spotted individuals tend to be females while those with few or no spots tend to be males. Most beetles have a small, dark "M" or "W"-shaped marking on the whitish area behind the head. The Asian lady beetles are beneficial insects. The<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> use of lady beetles as a </span>natural control of aphids in some crops like pecans has decreased insecticide use against those pests. Additionally, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">lady beetles</span> have been used to controlled aphids on some ornamental plants.
</span><br />
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<br />
<h3>
Cluster fly (<i>Pollena rudis</i>)</h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSX7uPPM5Yoystvunj_Ljjbkq3GG_kX9yOp9-I7VNhjmOppl1Rx6Ir7nXZhTM2XVM_YWjo_nWdCaoagpBd11iXB1O_KWf0hNNm5Bq_pTIgxuJ6hLqR5CMMtBE3isBNeoVAsvI-agXCNmo/s1600/cluster_fly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSX7uPPM5Yoystvunj_Ljjbkq3GG_kX9yOp9-I7VNhjmOppl1Rx6Ir7nXZhTM2XVM_YWjo_nWdCaoagpBd11iXB1O_KWf0hNNm5Bq_pTIgxuJ6hLqR5CMMtBE3isBNeoVAsvI-agXCNmo/s1600/cluster_fly.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cluster Fly - Colorado State University Extension</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cluster flies are named for their habit of overwintering in large clusters within the attics or upper walls of homes and buildings. They are black and a little larger than house flies, from 3/8- to 1/2-inch long, with short, yellow hairs on the thorax. Their wings overlap when at rest. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cluster flies are unique because they are parasites of earthworms. In summer they can be seen flying around yards just above the ground. They lay their eggs in cracks in the soil and the eggs hatch in about three days. The newly hatched maggots grab onto earthworms as they slither by and burrow into the worm to feed. The fly completes a life cycle in four to five weeks.</span><br />
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<br />
<br />
<h3>
Brown marmorated stink bug (<i>Halyomorpha halys</i>)</h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-QdojYfxhiAOow7eiOUelzvKXLKsVMsWvpnOyLk6hvdcI8CKaJnk4zC9mNkn7064FXVxq5-ai2Q5iF51KEIceTux1i4p1jDOomHGECMdrw06u5fjWkKn_5VGtyjrLz1bZo86LP_jCV-S/s1600/bmsb-smallid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-QdojYfxhiAOow7eiOUelzvKXLKsVMsWvpnOyLk6hvdcI8CKaJnk4zC9mNkn7064FXVxq5-ai2Q5iF51KEIceTux1i4p1jDOomHGECMdrw06u5fjWkKn_5VGtyjrLz1bZo86LP_jCV-S/s320/bmsb-smallid.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">University of California</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB), <i>Halyomorpha halys</i>, is a pest whose first officially reported appearance in the United State was in Allentown, Pennsylvania in 2001. Adult bugs are 14-17 mm (about a 1/2 inch) in lenght and dark mottled brown. The last 2 antennal segments have alternating light and dark bands. The exposed edges of the abdomen also have light and dark banding.
Stink bugs get their name from the scent glands located on the dorsal surface of the abdomen and the underside of the thorax. </span><br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Management</b></span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Repair torn screens and close up places where the insects can enter the house, such as cracks around doors and windows and attic or basement vents. Use caulk, weatherstripping, fine-mesh screen or expandable foam as appropriate. Overwintering insects that enter the home may be controlled by hand-collecting or vacuuming. Repeat as needed. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Eliminate hiding places such as piles of rocks, boards, leaves, and general debris close to houses. Rake leaves and remove weeds and grass from a 6- to 10-feet wide strip around the foundation, particularly on the south and west sides of the house. A weed and debris-free area tends to reduce the congregation of insects near the foundation. </span><br />
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<br />
<h3>
Additional Information</h3>
<br />
<a href="http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/cluster-flies" target="_blank">Cluster Flies - Pennsylvania State University</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.cals.uidaho.edu/edcomm/pdf/CIS/CIS1155.pdf" target="_blank">Boxelder Bug - University of Idaho</a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://njaes.rutgers.edu/stinkbug/identify.asp" target="_blank">How to Identify the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug - Rutgers University</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05502.html" target="_blank">Flies in the Home - Colorado State University Extension</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www2.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef416.asp" target="_blank">Asian Lady Beetle Infestation of Structures - University of Kentucky</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/veg/bean/brown_marmorated_stink_bug.htm" target="_blank">Brown Marmorated Stink Bug - Featured Creatures - University of Florida</a><br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-20051806859092787182015-11-25T08:44:00.000-08:002015-11-25T08:51:19.703-08:00IPM News and Related Stories<br />
Organic Rice<br />
With organic rice in demand, scientists to help farmers improve production<br />
<span style="font-weight: 400;">Organic rice is increasingly desired by
U.S. consumers, but farmers know that growing the grain chemically free
can mean providing a feast for insects, diseases and weeds.</span> <br />
<a href="http://today.agrilife.org/2015/10/19/with-organic-rice-in-demand-scientists-to-help-farmers-improve-production/" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
<br />
Toxic Algae Threatens Bald Eagles <br />
Hydrilla is slowly choking rivers, ponds and lakes of North Carolina.
Now it has become an even more ominous potential threat and an eagle
killer. <br />
<a href="http://www.coastalreview.org/2015/10/toxic-algae-threatens-bald-eagles/" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
<br />
New app helps strawberry and peach growers manage diseases<br />
Strawberry growers have a direct line to help for and information about diseases with the new MyIPM app, developed by researchers at Clemson University.<br />
<a href="http://www.clemson.edu/extension/horticulture/fruit_vegetable/peach/diseases/myipm.html" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
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Cover Crops<br />
SARE(Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education) has published a bulletin to promote the use of cover crops for pollinators and beneficial insects.<br />
<a href="http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Bulletins/Cover-Cropping-for-Pollinators-and-Beneficial-Insects" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
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Baby, it's cold outside. Time to stock up on firewood. <br />
An article from the USDA on how the Asian longhorned beetle, emerald ash borer and gypsy moth can be spread into new areas on firewood.<br />
<a href="http://blogs.usda.gov/2015/11/23/baby-it%E2%80%99s-cold-outside-time-to-stock-up-on-firewood/" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-48561154049034096142015-10-18T07:12:00.000-07:002015-10-18T07:12:04.705-07:00IPM Notes from October 15, 2015<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Winter rye has been seeded at different times where the soybeans and field corn were growing. The younger winter rye has a reddish color called "color banding" due to the cooler nights. Eventually the plant will turn green. The sprouting from the base of a winter rye plant or from the axils of its lower leaves is called tillering. If the rye is left alone to grow into the following spring it can be used as "longstraw" for bedding for farm animals or the rye can be harvested as a grain. Farmers don't like wildlife (geese in particular) on their winter rye because they constantly eat it through the fall and winter season. The rye does grow back.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybeans that were planted later this year have yet to be harvested. The moisture content needs to be around 14% for harvesting. A heavy dew or rainfall will increase the moisture content. Since most farmers are harvesting their soybeans at the same time of year (now) there can be logistical problems of having a truck for harvesting, or even waiting in a truck line for hours to have your harvested shipment accepted.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The alfalfa field has been cut short for winter, and will not be harvested again until next May. Several netting sweeps of the alfalfa field contained grasshoppers, leafhoppers, aphids and a plant bug. Alfalfa is a leguminous plant (as are soybeans) used for hay and forage. It is high in protein. Alfalfa likes a higher soil pH. Alfalfa and soybeans are nitrogen-fixing plants, but alfalfa provides more nitrogen. Using proper crop rotation every year, a farmer will need less nitrogen if corn is planted on the previous year's alfalfa or soybean field. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The demonstration plots are winding down for the year. The pumpkins, millet and broomcorn were harvested and moved up next to the pole barn as a display to be viewed and enjoyed by the crowd each Saturday at the farmers market. A few of the demonstration plots will be seeded next week with the cover crop winter wheat.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Notes compiled by John Siemanowski.</span>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-72569669044981567032015-10-05T17:15:00.001-07:002015-10-05T17:15:04.275-07:00IPM Notes from October 1, 2015T<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">he winter rye is sprouting where the field corn was harvested. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybeans are drying down, but with the approaching wet weather and strong winds the next few days there is concern the wind will split the bean pod off the plant, or knock the plant over resulting in many plants lodging on the ground. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The insect traps were also removed today. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">A pH soil test of each of the 10 demonstration plots was recently performed by Rob Mazza. The results are below. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 1 – Bell Pepper – 6.35 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 2 – Pollinator – 6.60 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 3 – Hops – 6.50 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 4 – Blueberry – 6.12 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 5 – Strawberry – 6.2 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 6 – Hot Pepper – 6.35 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 7 – Compost – 6.40 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 8 – Broomcorn - 5.93 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 9 – Pumpkin – 5.99 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Plot 10 – Tomato / Millet – 6.30 </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As in the past, additional sulfur will be added to the blueberry plot to lower the pH to make it more acidic. Lime will be added to the broomcorn and pumpkin plots to raise the pH to make it less acidic. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<i><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Below is the weekly summary for the insects caught in the four insect traps at the BCCAC in Moorestown. </span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 1 (Black Cut Worm) </b>– 1 each black cut worm and spider </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 2 (European Corn Borer)</b> - 1 each spider and grasshopper. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 3 (Fall Army Worm)</b> - 1 each fall army worm, stink bug, katydid. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 4 (Corn Ear Worm)</b> – 1 stinkbug. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 5 (Stink Bug) </b>– None. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Compiled by John Siemanowski</span><br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-25777359550378398392015-09-25T04:14:00.005-07:002015-09-25T04:14:58.596-07:00IPM Notes from September 24, 2015<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The winter rye is sprouting where the field corn was harvested. This despite having no rain. This is due to the moisture retained in the soil. Where the field corn was previously, the concern for next year will be the amount of weeded plants, corn borers and root worms that may be an issue for next year's crop. Root worm larvae will overwinter in the soil and can damage the plants roots next spring. They also may be resistant to BT corn. There was no sign of slugs in the soil.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Also discussed in the former field corn today was the issue of nutrient removal. As the corn is harvested and taken away, so much of the nutrient elements go with it. But the remains of the corn plant in the field also leave valuable nutrients like phosphorus and potassium. By doing it this way, and with a proper soil test analysis, a farmer will not need to fertilize as much for next year.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybeans are drying down, and the plants loose leaves based on day length, which is now shorter. The beans are small due to the lack of rain.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Walking through the alfalfa field there was quite a few grasshoppers, moths and leafhoppers flying around. They're there because it's the greenest field around for this time of year. Despite these insects the alfalfa field looks good. It shows no feeding damage or crinkling leaves. The field will be harvested again in the near future. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Below is the weekly summary for the insects caught in the four insect traps at the BCCAC in Moorestown. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 1 (Black Cut Worm)</b> – 3 black cut worm.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 2 (European Corn Borer)</b> - 1 each spider, grasshopper, mayfly, damsel fly.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 3 (Fall Army Worm)</b> - 5 fall army worm.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 4 (Corn Ear Worm)</b> – 6 noctuid.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 5 (Stink Bug)</b> – None.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Compiled by John Siemanowski</span><br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-75931728265432863592015-09-18T04:25:00.001-07:002015-09-18T04:25:48.400-07:00IPM Notes from September 17, 2015<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As mentioned last week the field corn has been harvested. Yesterday the field was seeded with a cover crop, winter rye. This will prevent soil erosion, keep the weeds to a minimum and keep the soil moist for the spring. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybean plants have grasshoppers and beetles feeding on the leaf edge. The stinkbugs are also piercing the pods searching for moisture. The soybeans are drying down, but the beans are small. Due to the moisture in the morning and the hot dry days, there is the concern the pods will crack open. Also, the bronzing effect on the leaves, called cercopera, can cause possible purple seed stain on the bean. Knowing this, it may be a better idea to try a more resistant soybean plant for next year. Some of the soybean crop will be harvested in two weeks. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the demonstration plots the strawberry plants look well, except that the Chandler June bearing plants are showing beetle and grasshopper damage. The pumpkin plot also did well this year, and the master gardeners learned that to grow giant pumpkins organically is a lot of hard work every day.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Below is the weekly summary for the insects caught in the four insect traps at the BCCAC in Moorestown. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 1 (Black Cut Worm)</b> – 2 fall armyworm. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 2 (European Corn Borer)</b> - 1 each spider, milkweed bug and cucumber beetle.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 3 (Fall Army Worm)</b> - 6 fall armyworm.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 4 (Corn Ear Worm)</b> – 9 noctuid.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 5 (Stink Bug)</b> – 2 stink bugs.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Notes compiled by John Siemanowski.</span><br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-40019276117870011232015-09-10T17:41:00.002-07:002015-09-19T11:18:08.375-07:00IPM Notes from September 10, 2015<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The seeds for the non-BT corn grown this year were about $100 a unit cheaper than the BT seeds. A week ago the master gardeners estimated that 150 to 160 bushels of corn per acre would be harvested. Within the past few days 160 bushels of corn per acre were actually harvested. The actual moisture content was 16.8%, which was slightly higher than the allowable 15.5%. So a slight deduction was made when the corn was sold. The harvested cornfield will probably be seeded with a cover crop like winter rye.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">As mentioned last week the soybean crop is also very dry. Different portions of the field show various colors of green and yellow. The yellow fields are loosing their leaves and drying down, so today's rainfall will not do them any good. The beans inside the pods are on the small side due to lack of rain. This will make them less marketable and less profitable.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Pedron peppers were picked last Tuesday (due to the Labor Day holiday) and yielded about 80 pounds. They are picked every Monday by the master gardeners, probably until frost.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the demonstration plots the additional strawberry plants that we expected to receive this fall for planting will not arrive until next spring. The Bell pepper plants suffered from bacterial leaf spot due to the heavy rainfall in June and July. With the disease the plants lost much of their leaves. They produced more fruit before the leaf spot than after. Recently new foliage has been growing, along with new buds, but it's probably too late in the growing season to expect a significant harvest. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Below is the weekly summary for the insects caught in the four insect traps at the BCCAC in Moorestown. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 1 (Black Cut Worm)</b> – 2 black cut worm. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 2 (European Corn Borer)</b> - 1 each click beetle and spider</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 3 (Fall Army Worm)</b> - 3 Fall army worm.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 4 (Corn Ear Worm)</b> – 12 noctuid.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Trap 5 (Stink Bug)</b> – 1 each green stink bug and chafer beetle</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Compiled by John Siemanonski </span><br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-45364986480356544362015-09-07T14:59:00.002-07:002015-09-07T14:59:57.303-07:00Beneficial Insect - Blue Wing Wasp<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Wasp is a general term that refers to a group of related insects in the order Hymenoptera. Blue-winged wasps are members of the order Hymenoptera and the Scoliidae family. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blue-winged wasps are solitary wasps and have a stinger. The stinger is primarily used to subdue prey such as spiders, cicadas and beetles. These are beneficial insects. It is important to know how to distinguish between social and solitary wasps, since solitary wasps rarely require control.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqlMSGcUKApxnb9ifKhVuoTv_frtslYf0OHyODaSWEQeQLX50l4JEAPIv7pdpJr8OwikMOXbIihL2d8eXQvsQQeV_O6Pc26QcMdR3KrOzPdKs5Hy_5OZ6n6wMsUoO_8cLLvJl_gKZdEGt/s1600/bluewingedwasp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipqlMSGcUKApxnb9ifKhVuoTv_frtslYf0OHyODaSWEQeQLX50l4JEAPIv7pdpJr8OwikMOXbIihL2d8eXQvsQQeV_O6Pc26QcMdR3KrOzPdKs5Hy_5OZ6n6wMsUoO_8cLLvJl_gKZdEGt/s320/bluewingedwasp.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blue-winged wasp (<i>Scolia dubia)</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Blue-winged wasps are about 20-25mm long, blue-black, with blackish purple wings. There are two yellow stripes, one on each side of the abdomen. Their bodies are fairly hairy and the back part of the abdomen is covered with reddish hairs. They are generally seen flying over the lawn during the day, leaving in early evening. Scoliids are beneficial wasps and parasitic on grubs. They are not aggressive and generally do not attack people. They disappear at the end of the season and help control the beetle grubs. Adults are often seen visiting golden rod flowers in late summer.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The presence of Blue-winged wasps may mean that there
is a green June beetle, Japanese beetle or May beetle grub
infestation.</span><br />
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<br />
<u><b>Additional Information</b></u><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.xerces.org/blog/staff-pollinator-pick-3-blue-winged-wasp-scolia-dubia/" target="_blank">Xerces Staff Pollinator Pick #3 Blue Winged Wasp</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/wasps/scoliid_wasps.htm" target="_blank">Florida Scoliid Wasps - University of Florida UF/IFAS</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.insectid.ento.vt.edu/insect-id/identify-pests/adult/bees/" target="_blank">Identification of Bees and Wasps</a><br />
<br />
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<br />Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-61743221300613999562015-09-07T11:58:00.000-07:002015-09-07T11:58:03.692-07:00IPM News and Related Stories<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tool for an IPM Toolbox</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The <i>IPM Practitioner’s</i> <i>2015 Directory of Least-Toxic Pest Control Products</i> is
now available online. This Directory lists more than 2,000 products
such as baits, traps, pheromones, microbials, biocontrol agents, least
toxic pesticides and other materials needed for IPM for insect, disease,
weed and vertebrate control. More information can be found here: <a href="http://ipm.ces.ncsu.edu/2015/08/a-good-directory-for-any-ipm-toolbox/" target="_blank">Directory of Least-Toxic Pest Control Products</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Adirondacks Invasives</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Nature Conservancy and partners have excelled at a coordinated approach that’s making a difference: early detection and rapid response of invasives. Read more at:
<a href="http://blog.nature.org/science/2013/10/28/adirondacks-rapid-response-an-invasives-success-story/" target="_blank">Adirondacks Rapid Response an Invasives Success Story</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">New York Honey Bees Evolved Resistance to Disease After Exposure to Varroa Mites</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Researchers have found a population of bees that appears to have developed genetic resistance to predatory mite called the Varroa destructor. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><a href="http://entomologytoday.org/2015/08/20/new-york-honey-bees-evolved-resistance-to-disease-after-exposure-to-varroa-mites/" target="_blank">Read more.</a></span>Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-209253178303837089.post-89043640852375268262015-09-04T03:43:00.004-07:002015-09-04T03:43:31.276-07:00IPM Notes from September 3, 2015<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Due to the hot dry weather the field corn will probably be harvested within the next week. The corn is in the mature stage, and since it is non-BT corn the fear is that a strong storm will easily blow over the dried and brittle cornstalks that already are showing plenty of corn borer damage. This would make harvesting difficult, if not impossible.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">An estimate of the future field corn harvest was made today. An estimated 150 to 160 bushels per acre is expected to be harvested within the next week. This was calculated by taking several samples of about 27 ears per 17.5 feet, then taking a representative sample of 6 ears and counting the kernels (length & width) of each. The average number of kernels (500) on each of the 6 ears times the average number of ears - 27 (within 17.5 feet) equaled 13,500 kernels. This total (13,500) divided by 80 gave 169 bushels per acre on a normal basis. Allow for 10 percent imperfections equals 152 bushels per acre. If this estimate proves fairly accurate, this would be a break-even situation for the corn harvest this year.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybean crop is also very dry. Different portions of the field show various colors of green. This can be due to the moisture soil texture that may have more clay or silt, or differences in fertilizers. The outside edges may be slightly greener due to the stink bug green stem syndrome. Stink bugs enter the soybean field from the edge first, and by piercing the plant stem, the soybean plant on the field edge remains green longer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The soybean plant losses its leaves due to the shorter day length (photoperiod). The beans inside the pods are on the small side due to lack of rain. Without moisture the plant is aborting new flower growth that create new pods, and thus putting all its energy into the existing pods. This will make them less marketable and less profitable (if sold at a profit).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The Pedron peppers have rebounded nicely and are being irrigated. They are picked every Monday by the master gardeners, probably until frost.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In the demonstration plots the giant pumpkin plants have rebounded with the aid some dedicated master gardeners and the use of fungicide, insecticide and fertilizer spray. Two of the seven pumpkins were removed from the vine. All this is valuable experience to be used next year. The six tomato plants are producing well. Several tomato horn worms were noted today with the white wasp eggs attached as the parasite. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Notes compiled by John Siemanonski</span><br />
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Richardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10740081480199972442noreply@blogger.com