Right Tree for the Right Place!

How to Plant New Trees in the Home Garden

As the weather warms in springtime, many home gardeners consider incorporating new trees into their landscape.  Additionally, April in many communities has been given the moniker of “Earth Month” when environmentalists celebrate by planting trees.  The importance of trees cannot be underestimated as they help improve air quality, provide wildlife habitat, control erosion, offer shade, produce fruit, and are also visually pleasing. Trees are an integral part of our everyday lives.

However, the most important thing to keep in mind is to plant the right tree in the right place. The decisions regarding what kind and where to plant trees should be given careful consideration. Since trees are meant to be long-term fixtures of an environment, taking steps at planting time to ensure healthy growth and longevity is essential for success.

Photo Credit: Oklahoma State University

Tree Selection:

Several factors should be considered while deciding on the type of tree best suited to the landscape. Again, pick the right tree for the right place.

Hardiness: Will the tree survive cold and hot temperatures?

Light Requirements: Does the tree require full sun or can it be grown in shade?

Water Requirements: How much water does the tree need to achieve healthy growth?

Size and Shape at Maturity: How tall and wide will the tree grow?

Ornamental Value: Is the tree visually pleasing?

Maintenance: Does the tree drop its leaves or needles in the autumn?

Use: Is the tree being used to provide privacy or block something unsightly? Is the tree being used to produce food? Will it help with erosion control?

Native/Non-Native/Invasive: Will the tree be part of a landscape with other natives? Could the tree be potentially invasive?

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 Purchasing Trees:

Trees can be purchased in either in a container, balled with burlap and twine, or bare root. Bare root trees do not have any dirt attached to their roots making it easier to buy from mail-order nurseries. Bare root trees must be planted before they break dormancy in the spring or planted in the late fall after leaf drop. Balled and burlapped trees have the soil and roots contained within the burlap. Trees in containers have been dug and then placed in the pot with soil or potting mix.

 Site Selection:

Consider the space you have above the ground. Be mindful of what size the tree will be at maturity. Don’t plant too close to surrounding structures, other trees, or powerlines. Also consider the space you have below ground for the roots to grow out. Be mindful of the depth of your soil as well as proximity to buildings, sidewalks, and roadways. A proper site will give the tree access to adequate water and sunlight. A soil test may be used to assess the soil pH and available nutrients.

 Timing:

The best time to plant trees is in the fall after the tree has gone dormant or spring before the buds begin to open. Do not attempt to plant trees when the ground is frozen solid or during the heat of summer when water loss may become an issue. Planting should be done when temperatures are moderate.

Planting:

Planting depth is very important . A hole should be dug two to three times the diameter of the root ball and only just as deep. The basal flare (where the roots meet the trunk) should not be covered with soil. The flare should sit just above the soil line. Beware of planting trees too deeply. Sometimes the root ball can settle after planting, resulting in the trunk becoming covered with soil. If the roots are balled, remove the twine and burlap before placing the tree in the hole to free up the roots. With potted trees, it may be necessary to gently loosen pot bound roots before planting to avoid girdling.

When placing soil back into the hole, use the original/native soil. It is not recommended to use compost, fertilizer, or potting mix because the added nutrients will eventually constrain root growth. Water thoroughly after planting. Allow to soil to settle in around the roots. Create a basin around the tree by creating a planting berm (a few inches tall) with soil for water retention.

Do not prune trees at planting time as leaves will help the tree develop a better root system. If high winds are an issue at the site, consider staking the tree to prevent the root ball from moving.

 

Figure Credit: University of New Hampshire Extension Fact Sheet,
“Planting and Mulching Trees and Shrubs”, Cathy Neal, Extension Professor/Specialist

Watering:

Regular watering is required, especially during hot and dry months until the tree has time to get established. Keep in mind trees need several years of steady moisture to maintain proper health. The soil around the root ball should be kept moist, but not waterlogged. Monitor the soil moisture to ensure it is not over or underwatered.

Mulching:

Several inches of mulch may be used to suppress weeds and preserve soil moisture. However, keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk to limit bark decay and discourage overwintering rodents.  Do not over-mulch trees or create a “volcano” like mound at the base. This will lead to slow growth and decline by stressing the tree. Mulch can deprive the tree of oxygen and trap excessive moisture against the root flare.

 

Mulch piled against a trunk.
Caption and photo credit: Rutgers University Extension Fact Sheet 099,
“Problems with Over-mulching Trees and Shrubs”

Pruning:

Keep in mind that many trees will need proper pruning at some point in order to remove dead or diseased wood and to maintain the tree’s shape. Depending on the age and size of the tree, different pruning methods and tools may apply. Research the type of tree you have and the proper way to prune it. For example, fruit trees have different pruning needs than other trees. Do not climb into trees, rather leave this type of work for a certified arborist.

 

 Additional Information:

Rutgers University Agricultural Extension: “Transplanting Trees and Shrubs”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=fs376

Rutgers University Agricultural Extension: “Problems with Over-Mulching Trees and Shrubs”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs099/

Penn State Extension: “Pruning Landscape Trees”
https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-landscape-trees

University of New Hampshire Extension: “Planting and Mulching Trees and Shrubs Fact Sheet”
https://extension.unh.edu/resource/planting-and-mulching-trees-and-shrubs-fact-sheet

The Arbor Day Foundation: “Planting the Right Tree in the Right Place”
https://arbordayblog.org/treeplanting/need-know-planting-right-tree-right-place/

Trees Are Good: “Tree Owner Information”
https://www.treesaregood.org/treeowner

 

Spring Invasive - Lesser Celandine - A Springtime Menace

As the winter chill begins to thaw and the first signs of spring emerge, one of spring's ephemeral flowers makes its debut: the lesser celandine (Ficaria verna previously Ranunculus ficaria L.). Often heralded as a harbinger of spring, this petite yet vibrant plant holds a unfavorable place in the hearts of nature enthusiasts and gardeners alike. 

Botanical Characteristics: 

Belonging to the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae), lesser celandine is a low-growing perennial herb native to Europe, western Asia, and northern Africa. It typically blooms from March to May, carpeting woodland floors, meadows, and riverbanks with a burst of golden-yellow blossoms. Each flower consists of eight to twelve glossy petals surrounding a bright yellow center, creating a striking contrast against the lush green foliage. 

Lesser Celandine, a.k.a. Fig buttercup (Photo: David Nicholls, NatureSpot.org National Biodiversity Network Trust [NBN Trust], UK)

Map of Lesser Celandine’s invasive range in the United States and Canada

Source: https://plants.usda.gov/core/profile?symbol=RAFI

Ecological Impacts: 

Despite its delicate appearance, lesser celandine plays a crucial role in undermining biodiversity. In its introduced range, it arrives very early in the spring, this gives the invasive plant an advantage over native ephemerals such as mayapple or Dutchman’s breeches that are still mostly dormant in those temperatures.  It spreads out over the ground, creating a thick carpet, making it virtually impossible for native understory plants to grow and survive.  Native wildflowers and pollinators are particularly negatively impacted by this invasive specieshroughout history, lesser celandine has been intertwined with various cultural beliefs and folklore. 

Cultural and Folklore Significance

In ancient Greece, it was associated with the god of love, Eros, and was believed to have the power to attract affection. In Celtic mythology, it was considered a symbol of regeneration and renewal, often appearing in springtime celebrations. In Christian tradition, the lesser celandine is sometimes known as “pilewort” due to its traditional use in treating piles or hemorrhoids. Legend has it that the plant’s knobby tubers, resembling piles, were thought to possess healing properties. 

Garden Cultivation and Management: 

Gardeners should avoid incorporating lesser celandine into their landscapes, because of its vigorous growth habit.  Controlling lesser celandine can be challenging due to its ability to spread rapidly. Here are some methods to control it:

• Hand-pulling: Remove lesser celandine by hand, making sure to remove the entire plant including the tubers. This is most effective when the soil is moist, making it easier to pull out the roots.
• Mulching: Apply a thick layer of mulch, such as wood chips or straw, to smother lesser celandine and prevent it from receiving sunlight.
• Herbicides: Selective herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr can be effective in controlling lesser celandine. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when using herbicides.
• Repeat treatments: Since lesser celandine can regrow from small root fragments, it may be necessary to repeat treatments multiple times to completely eradicate it.
• Plant competition: Planting competitive native species in the area can help suppress the growth of lesser Celandine.

Remember to combine methods for the most effective control of lesser celandine, and be persistent in your efforts to prevent its spread.

Despite its allure, it’s important to exercise caution and not introduce lesser celandine to a garden setting. In New Jersey, where it is not native, the plant can become invasive, outcompeting native species and disrupting delicate ecosystems. Therefore, it’s crucial to consider alternative native plants that offer similar benefits without posing a threat to the environment. 

Additional Information

Native Plants of New Jersey - New Jersey Native Plant Society

Lesser Celandine - University of Maryland Extension

Lesser Celandine - USDA Plant Database

 

Spring Weeds: Deadnettle and Henbit. What's the difference?

Its spring and spring plants are beginning to flower.  Have you ever notice the little purple/pink flowering plants that appear in your gardener on your walks? They are probably two of the most common spring weeds found in gardens: deadnettle or henbit.  How can you tell them apart?

Deadnettle or purple deadnettle and henbit are often mistaken for each other.  Once you know what to look for they are easy to differentiate.  First some background.  In some of the literature you will see these plants referred to as purple deadnettle(Lamium purpureum) and henbit deadnettle (Lamium amplexicaule).  Unlike some other nettles, these deadnettles do not sting.  In other words it is a "dead" nettle.  The common name henbit comes from observations that chickens like to eat it.

Deadnettle and henbit are winter annuals.  Both plants germinate in the fall and resume growth in the spring as the temperature rises, they set seed and then die in the late spring or early summer.

Square (quadrangular) stems

Purple deadnettle and henbit are members of the Laminaceae (also Labiatae) mint family.  There are over 250 genera of mints and approximately 7000 species.  Mints range in size from small herbaceous plants like henbit and purple deadnettle to trees.  There are certain characteristics that are common to all mints:

• Square stems
• Opposite, fragrant leaves
• Bilabiate flowers 
• Flowers ovary is segmented in four lobes

Purple deadnettle (on the left) and henbit (on the right) have square stems which are a common identification characteristic of members of the mint family.

Henbit - Photo by Dr. John Meade, weed scientist emeritus

Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension

Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule)

Lamium amplexicaule L. - henbit deadnettle - Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 3: 121. Provided by Kentucky Native Plant Society. Scanned By Omnitek Inc.- USDA Image Library

Henbit has petioles on the lower leaves but not the upper leaves.  The upper leaves are clasping, hence 

the species name amplexicaule which means clasping.

Deadnettle - Photo by Dr. John Meade, weed scientist emeritus
Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension

Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum)

Lamium purpurem L. - purple deadnettle - Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 3: 121. Provided by Kentucky Native Plant Society. Scanned By Omnitek Inc. - USDA Imahe Library

The leaves on deadnettle all have petioles.  The length of the petioles tend to get smaller as you move upward on the plant.  The upper leaves on henbit do have petioles and leaves on the lower portion of the plant have long petioles.

Deadnettle (on the right)  and Henbit (on the left) Leaves

Notice that the leaves on the deadnettle are more triangular in shape and not as deeply lobed as the leaves on the henbit.  The leaves of henbit have a more rounded shape, are deeply veined and have hairs on the upper and lower surfaces.

Visit the weed control links listed below for information on controlling these weeds around the home or in the lawn.

NOTE: Always read and follow herbicide directions carefully. Do not use herbicides for controlling broadleaf weeds in turf such as dandelion in or near ornamental planting beds. If weeds are a persistent problem in landscape planting beds homeowners may wish to consult with a professional landscape contractor. 

Additional Information

New Jersey Weed Gallery - Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension

Weed Control in Home Lawns - Rutgers NJAES Cooperative Extension

Weed Control around the Home Grounds - Rutgers Cooperative Extension

Meet the Mints - University of Georgia

Illustrated Glossary - Flora of the Chicago Region -Conservation Research Institute

Henbit - Purdue University

What’s Not to Like About Lichens?

Often overlooked, Lichens serve many functions in the natural environment. Not only are they good indicators of environmental health, but they also support wildlife. Known as a “keystone” species, lichens are vital to the well-being of the entire ecosystem. Late winter/early spring is a great time to take a walk and keep an eye out for the many different types growing in New Jersey.

Lichens come in different shapes, sizes, and colors.

Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Rutgers Master Gardener of Burlington County

Lichens can be found growing on trees, rocks, soil, metal, plastic, cloth, etc. They are living organisms that function as a symbiotic combination of fungus, algae, and yeast. The algae provides nutrients through photosynthesis, the fungi protects the algae from drying out, and the yeast allows the lichen to produce an acid that protects it from microbes.

Lichens can be beautiful and take on many shapes depending on the type. The three main groups of lichens include: crustose (crusty), foliose (leafy), and fruticose (bearded or tubular).

Perhaps the biggest reason for lichens’ likability is that lichens are indicators of good air quality. They are used as bio-monitors and give scientists clues about environmental pollution levels. Most lichens will not tolerate air pollution, they require clean air. They may die if exposed to elevated levels of sulfur or heavy metals. According to the National Park Service, “Lichen trap particulate matter in the air like dust, while also absorbing smaller pollutants like sulfur, mercury, and nitrogen. This means cleaner, healthier air for us to breathe.” 

In 2015, two species of lichens were removed from the Rutgers Pinelands Field Station and moved to the New York Botanical Garden in New York City. But, more than two years after the move, the lichens met their demise. Researchers attributed their non-survival to both disturbance and exposure to higher levels of air pollution than was present in their previous habitat in southern New Jersey.

Group of boulders with crustose lichens.

Photo Credit: Karen Dillman, U.S. Forest Service.

Contrary to a popular misconception, lichens do not harm trees. They do not feed on tree bark. Lichens are not a sign that a tree is damaged, dying, or diseased. They are found, however, on slow-growing, often mature trees. In this way, they can be an indicator of declining health of the tree because the bark has become brittle and cracked or the tree has defoliated. The lichens are not damaging the tree, simply using the bark as a place to exist and collect sunlight.

Foliose type lichen growing on a pine tree.

Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts Rutgers Master Gardener of Burlington County

Fun Facts about Lichen:

• Lichens occur in all habitats, including arctic, rainforests and desert.
• Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds use lichen to line their nests.
• Lacewing insects carry lichen on their backs as camouflage.
• Lichens are a food source for deer, birds, and rodents.
• Scientists can use certain slow-growing lichens to estimate the age of rocks, glacial retreats, and landslides.
• Humans throughout history have used lichens in food, to dye clothing, and as medicine.
• Some lichens can live for centuries.
• There are approximately 3,600 species of known lichen in North America.

The next time you are out for a walk, take a moment to notice the abundant and different types of lichens.  Now you know more about them, you may find yourself breathing a bit easier and liking lichens a bit more.

 References and Additional Resources:

Rutgers Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet: “Tree-Dwelling Lichen”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1205/

University of Maryland Extension: “Lichen, Algae, and Moss on Trees”
https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lichen-algae-and-moss-trees/

US Forest Service: “Lichen Biology”
https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/lichens/biology.shtml

Us National Park Service: “Lichen-The Little Things that Matter”
https://www.nps.gov/articles/lichen-and-our-air.htm

New York State Parks Blog: “Likin’ the Lichens in New York State”
https://nystateparks.blog/2017/05/09/likin-the-lichens-in-new-york-state/

New York Botanical Garden Blog: “New Jersey Lichens Give Up the Ghost”
https://www.nybg.org/blogs/science-talk/2018/01/new-jersey-lichens-give-ghost/

Soil: The Incredible Resource Below Our Feet

No garden can be successful without healthy soil. Often mistakenly undervalued, soil is the fundamental resource sustaining everything on earth. Plant life and the organisms that depend on plants could not survive without it. It is a living thing with many parts systematically working together. Soil provides the minerals, nutrients, biological elements, and the structure plants need to grow and thrive. But, don’t confuse soil with dirt. Dirt refers to bits of debris that are unclean or dusty. Dirt cannot support plants, whereas soil is teaming with beneficial life.

Soils start as stones that have been broken down again and again over millennia by wind and water.  Those become particles of varying size (sand, silt, and clay). Among these particles is organic matter, decaying plants, animals, and microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. Soil has pore spaces that fill with air and water.  

“In just one teaspoon of agricultural soil there can be

one hundred million to one billion bacteria,

six to nine feet of fungal strands put end to end,

several thousand flagellates and amoeba,

one to several hundred ciliates,

hundreds of nematodes,
 up to one hundred tiny soil insects,

and five or more earthworms.”

(Penn State Extension, “Soil Quality Information”, 2012.)

What are the characteristics of quality soil?

As gardeners, managing soil can be just as important as managing the plants that grow in it. Soil should do what we want it to do. Whether you are growing a vegetable crop, ornamental shrubs, or a lush lawn, paying attention to your soil’s composition and fertility is vital.

The characteristics of soil are unique.  Ideally, soil should have lots of organic matter, the capacity to hold water and air, and the ability to release nutrients to plants. It also functions to anchor plants, insulate their roots, and resist erosion.

Soil in the home garden.
Photo Credit: Alyson Ricketts, Burlington County Master Gardener

Soil can be categorized by its texture; sand, silt, clay, or loam. Sandy soil provides good drainage to plants as it lets water freely pass through, although it does not hold many nutrients. Silt particles are smoother and silkier than sand. Clay is smaller particles and holds on to water and nutrients, but can be difficult for plants roots to move through. Loam soil contains lots of organic matter and is a combination of sand, silt, and clay.

The composition of your soil depends on your location. Although soils vary widely across the state, New Jersey has a designated state soil found mostly in southern locations.  Called “Downer” soils, they are loamy, acidic, and made of coastal plain sediments. These soils are good for growing agricultural crops and sustaining many species of woodland trees. 

How do you know what is in your soil?

Thinking about soil first is an important step. Knowing the characteristics of your soil will determine your approach to planting and can help you decide what to plant and where. Some soils are ideal for specific plants and not for others. Getting your soil tested is the only way to know what’s in there. You want to know if your soil has issues that need to be corrected or if any amendments are needed.  Getting a soil test is environmentally friendly because you won’t be adding any unnecessary fertilizers that have the potential to run off and contaminate waterways. Soil tests can save money because you won’t be buying amendments you don’t need.

Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory

Photo Credit: Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station

Fall is a great time to have your soil tested so you can prepare before the growing season. The first step in getting your soil tested is to purchase a test kit from the Rutgers Cooperative Extension county office or follow the sampling instructions on the website. Make sure to follow the sampling instructions carefully.  About two cups of sample soil is required from several holes, dug about 6 to 8 inches deep. Also, you will need to submit a soil questionnaire. Areas used for different types of plants should be tested separately. For example, perennial beds should be tested separately from the lawn and separately from the vegetable garden. The report will arrive in a few weeks from the time of submission by email or mail. For questions about your soil report contact the extension office.

Rutgers Soil Testing Laboratory
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/

The soil testing lab provides testing and reports to help
New Jersey residents achieve their agricultural and environmental goals.

Soil pH

Knowing your soil pH (how acidic or alkaline) is important because plants can’t take up the nutrients they require if the pH is not within the optimal range. If the soil pH is not correct for the plant, soil amendments can be used to adjust the pH. The soil test report will indicate if limestone should be used to raise the pH or a sulfur application is needed to lower pH.  A pH of about 6.5 is optimum for most plants. Some plants have special needs, however. Blueberries, for example, prefer to grow in very acidic soil with a pH between 4.0 and 4.8.

Macronutrients and Micronutrients

Soil already has nutrients in it. A soil test will tell you what nutrients and how much it contains. Macronutrients are required by plants in larger amounts than micronutrients. Macronutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Micronutrients are calcium, manganese, boron, zinc, and copper. Depending on the levels, composted organic matter or specific fertilizers may be needed. If applying fertilizer, use the correct type and amount. Always read the label and instructions. 

How to Care for and Maintain Soil

Keeping your soil covered with mulch, compost or a cover crop is an important step. This will help with erosion control and also add nutrients as the cover decomposes. Covering soil will help minimize weeds, retain moisture, and moderate the temperature. Try to avoid walking on soil and instead stick to walkways. Compacted soil becomes a problem because roots, water, and air cannot move through it. This is why tilling, which can compact soil, should be done in moderation. Try to avoid disturbing soil as this can bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. Finally, use an Integrated Pest Management strategy to avoid overuse of pesticides which can kill some of the living organisms in the soil.

Additional Resources:

Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 719: “Soil Fertility Test Interpretation”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS719

Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 797: “Soil Testing for Home Lawns and Gardens”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs797/

Penn State Extension: “Soil Quality Information”
https://extension.psu.edu/soil-quality-information

Rutgers Publications Fact Sheet 1135: Soil Organic Matter
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/publication.php?pid=FS1135

New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station: “How to Have Your Soil Tested”
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/how-to.php

Jersey Friendly Yards: “Step 2, Start With Healthy Soil”
https://www.jerseyyards.org/create-a-jersey-friendly-yard/8-steps/step-2-start-with-healthy-soil/

Soil Science Society of America: “Soils are Living”
https://www.soils.org/files/sssa/iys/july-soils-overview.pdf

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service: “New Jersey Soil”
https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/conservation-by-state/new-jersey/new-jersey-soils

Soil Science Society of America: “Downer, New Jersey State Soil”
https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/nj-state-soil-booklet.pdf

Michigan State University Extension: “Soil…it’s more than dirt”
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soilits_more_than_dirt

Rutgers University Extension: “Digging Deeper: What’s Your Soil Telling You?”
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0rNVblU_08

 Brooklyn Botanic Garden: “How Compost Builds the Soil”
https://www.bbg.org/article/how_compost_builds_the_soil#:~:text=Feed%20the%20soil%2C%20not%20the,Bin%20A%20homemade%20compost%20bin.

 

Some Tips on Planning a Vegetable Garden

 

We are in the middle of winter and winter is the best time to plan for your summer garden.  New and experienced gardeners can achieve great results by following some basic recommendations.  Here are some suggestions and resources that will guide you as you begin this year's gardening adventure.

Planning

Plan the garden on paper.  

Draw a map of the garden layout showing the location and spacing of the crops.  When planting, group tall crops (okraand sunflowers) and trellised vines (peas and beans) together on the north side of the garden so they won’t shade shorter plants.

One of the most important reasons to draw out a plan is so that you can use it in subsequent years to make sure you are rotating your crops as you should.  Vegetable crops in the same plant family should not be planted in the same area of a garden year after year.   See the table below for a list of common plant families.

Make a list of the plants that you enjoy eating and rank them in order of preference.

Keep a journal and record your thoughts and observations throughout the growing seasons.  The journal can be your reference point for what worked and what didn't work.  

Site Selection

Selecting a site for your garden:

• The site should have good drainage.  Avoid putting the garden in an area where rain water accumulates. 
• Easy access to water is essential.
• Proximity to your house.  Choose a location that is easy to get to and convenient. 
• Choose a location with a southern exposure where the plants will get plenty of sun.  Most vegetables need eight hours of direct sunlight
• The garden should be as small as possible to reduce the amount of unnecessary work.

Garden Format

If you don’t have space for a vegetable garden or if your present site is too small, consider raising fresh, homegrown vegetables in containers. A window sill, patio, balcony, or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a productive container garden. 

Container Garden - University of Maryland Extension

Some suggestions for choosing containers:

• Everyday objects can be recycled and used as containers.
• Avoid dark colored containers, since they create more heat that may damage a young plant's roots.
• Containers made of materials like clay dry out more quickly than containers made of plastic or metal.
• Containers should have holes for draining water, unless they are self-watering.
• Plastics not made for outdoor can become brittle.

Listed below are some recommendations for growing vegetables in containers.

Information for Growing Vegetables in Containers

Vegetable* Light Requirement**	Minimum Container Size	Distance (inches) Between Plants in Containers	Days from Seed to Harvest	Comments
Beans, bush FS	2 gal.	2-3	45-60	Several plantings, two-week intervals
Beets FS/PS	1/2 gal.	2-3	50-60	Thin plants when 6 to 8 inches tall
Carrots FS/PS	1 qt.	2-3	65-80	Several plantings, two-week intervals
Cabbage FS/PS	5 gal.	12-18	65-120	Requires fertile soil
Chard, Swiss FS/PS	1/2 gal.	4-6	30-40	Harvest leaves for long yield
Cucumbers FS	5 gal.	14-18	70-80	Require hot weather, vining types need support
Eggplant FS	5 gal.	1 plant per container	75-100	Requires fertile soil
Kale FS/PS	5 gal.	10-15	55-65	Harvest leaves
Lettuce, leaf PS	1/2 gal.	4-6	30-35	Harvest leaves
Mustard greens PS	1/2 gal.	4-5	35-40	Several plantings, two-week intervals
Onions, green FS/PS	1/2 gal.	2-3	70-100	Require lots of moisture
Peppers, Bell FS	2 gal.	1 plant per container	110-120	Require hot weather
Radishes FS/PS	1 pint	1	25-35	Several plantings, weekly intervals
Squash, summer FS	5 gal.	1 plant per container	50-60	Plant only bush type
Tomatoes FS	5 gal.	1 plant per container	55-100	Stake and prune or cage
Tomatoes, cherry FS	1 gal.	1 plant per container	55-100	Helps to stake and prune
Turnips FS/PS	3 gal.	2-3	30-60	Harvest leaves and roots

 

If you are not growing plants in a container the table below provides useful information for growing vegetables in New Jersey.

 

New Jersey Vegetable Planting Guide

Vegetable	Spacing (in.)		Transplant or Seeds	Planting Dates*	Avg. Yield per 10 ft. of Row
	In Row	Btwn. Rows
Asparagus	18	60	Crowns	Perennial	5 lb.
Beans, Lima, bush	4	24	seed	Ma,Ju,Jl	6 lb.
Beans, Lima, pole	36	36	seed	Ma,Ju,Jl	7 lb.
Beans, Snap, bush	4	24	seed	Ma,Ju,Jl	6 lb.
Beans, snap., pole	36	24	seed	Ma,Ju,Jl	7 lb.
Beets	3	15	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl	14 lb.
Broccoli	15	30	transplant	Ap,Ma,Jl,Au	8 heads
Brussels Sprouts	18	30	transplant	Jl	5 lb.
Cabbage	18	24	transplant	Ap,Jl	7 heads
Cabbage, Chinese	12	18	seed or trp.	Ap,Jl	10 heads
Carrots	3	15	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl	10 lb.
Cauliflower	24	30	transplant	Jl	5 heads
Celery	6	18	transplant	Ma,Ju	20 stalks
Chard, Swiss	6	24	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au	20 plants
Collards	18	24	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl	10 lb.
Corn, Sweet	12	24	seed	Ma,Ju	10 ears
Cucumbers	36	30	seed or trp.	Ju,Jl	8 lb.
Eggplant	30	30	transplant	Ma,Ju	20 fruit
Endive	12	18	seed or trp.	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au	10 plants
Kale	15	18	seed	Jl,Au	24 lb.
Kohlrabi	4	15	seed or trp.	Ap,Ma,Jl,Au	20 bulb.
Leeks	3	15	transplants	Ap,Ma,Au	40 plants
Lettuce,Leaf,Romaine	8	15	seed or trp.	Ap,Ma,Au,Se	15 heads
Lettuce, Bibb	6	15	seed or trp.	Ap,Ma,Au,Se	20 heads
Muskmelons	36	72	seed or trp.	Ju	8 melons
Mustard Greens	12	15	seed	Au	10 lb.
Okra	24	36	seed	Ma,Ju	100 pods
Onions, dry	4	15	seed,trp.sets	Ap	10 lb.
Parsley	6	15	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju	20 bunches
Parsnips	3	18	seed	Ap	10 lb.
Peas	2	18	seed	Mr,Ap	3 lb.
Peppers	15	15	transplant	Ju	12 lb.
Pumpkins	48	96	seed	Ju	4 fruit
Radishes	1	12	seed	Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au,Se	60 roots
Rhubarb	36	48	crowns	Perennial	20 stalks
Rutabagas	4	18	seeds	Ap,Jl	15 lb.
Spinach	4	18	seeds	Ap,Se	7 lb.
Squash, bush	24	48	seeds or trp.	Ju,Jl	25 fruit
Squash, vine	36	72	seeds or trp.	Ju	20 fruits
Sweet Potatoes	12	36	transplants	Ju	12 lb.
Tomatoes	24	36	transplants	Ma,Ju	50 lb.
Turnips	3	18	seed	Ap,Jl	7 lb.
Watermelons	36	96	seed	Ju	3 melons
White Potatoes	12	24	tubers	Ap	18 lb.

*Mr=March; Ap=April; Ma=May; Ju=June; Jl=July; Au=August; Se=September

Many new vegetable varieties of vegetables are constantly being developed.  Before purchasing vegetable plants read the label carefully,  note the growing conditions, date to maturity, resistance to disease and pests.

Some common vegetables and their plant family classifications.

PLANT FAMILY	VEGETABLE
Carrot Family (Apiaceae)	carrot, celery, parsley, parsnip
Goosefoot Family (Chenopodiaceae)	beet, spinach, Swiss chard
Gourd Family (Cucurbitaceae)	cucumber, muskmelon, pumpkin, summer squash, watermelon, winter squash
Grass Family (Poaceae)	ornamental carn, popcorn, sweet corn
Mallow Family (Malvaceae)	okra
Mustard Family (Brassicaceae)	broccoli, Burssels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collard, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, radish, rutabaga, turnip
Nightshade Family (Solanaceae)	eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato
Onion Family (Alliaceae)	chives, garlic, leek, onion
Pea Family (Fabaceae)	bush bean, kidney bean, lima bean, pea, pole bean, soybean
Sunflower Family (Asteraceae)	endive, lettuce, sunflower

Test and Prepare the Soil

Example of a soil test kit

Soil testing is an easy, quick and accurate method to determine the relative acidity of the soil. The test will also measure the level of some essential nutrients (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper, and zinc) needed for healthy plant growth. Samples for planting and gardening projects should be submitted several weeks before you plan to plant. This will allow plenty of time for you to get the results back and if necessary, amend the soil before planting.  The results from the test will aid you in plant selection, soil preparation, and fertilization. The test results will help you avoid overfertilization, which can stimulate excessive plant growth and increase the likelihood of some diseases. Applying the correct grade and amount of fertilizer can also help reduce pollution of our water supplies and allow you to have healthier, more productive plants.

Irrigation

Generally speaking, most vegetable crops grow best if they receive about an inch of rainfall per week through the growing season. In a season with regular rainfall, supplemental irrigation may not be necessary except when first transplanting young plants into the garden. However, in a dry year, access to irrigation may be needed. Many gardeners irrigate overhead (with a hose and nozzle attachment or with a sprinkler system) or using drip irrigation (using soaker hoses).   Drip irrigation is the most efficient method for irrigation.  In drip irrigation systems the water is slowly released at the garden's surface through plastic tubing with tiny holes.  Reliable and convenient access to a source of water is critical to the success of your garden.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

IPM is method that can be used to manage weeds and other pest in a garden.  What is IPM?  IPM is a "science-based decision-making process that combines tools and strategies to identify and manage pests".  In a garden, a pest is any organism (plant or animal) that interferes with the growth of the vegetables in your garden.  

Factsheet from the Entomological Society of America 

Weed Control

Weeds are a constant problem for all gardeners.  Weeds compete with the plants in your garden for nutrients and resources.  Weeds can also introduce insect pests and diseases into the garden.  Effective weed control is essential for ensuring that your garden will have healthy and productive plants.  Weeds can be managed with mechanical, chemical, mulch and weed fabric.

Mechanical 

You can control weeds by cultivation and periodically hand pulling the weeds throughout the growing season.  Begin your control efforts early in the growing season when the weeds are small and easier to eradicate.  If cultivating avoid deep tillage since it brings more weeds to the surface and can cause the soil to dry out more rapidly.

Chemical

Organic herbicides (pesticides used to control weeds) and non-organic herbicides can also be used to control the weeds in your garden.

There are basically two types of herbicides: pre-emergent and post-emergent.  Pre-emergent herbicides control the germinating seeds before plants emerge from the soil. They won’t control weeds that have already emerged and are growing in the garden.  Post-emergent herbicides are used to control weeds that have already emerged. The younger the weed, the better chance that a post-emergence herbicide will work.  In addition to herbicides being pre or post-emergent, herbicides can also be non-selective and selective.  Herbicides that kill most plants they contact are called non-selective.  While herbicides that control some kinds of plants but not others are called selective herbicides.

A few things to remember

• Always identify the weed you are trying to control.  
• Check that the herbicide label lists the weed you are trying to control.  
• Verify that the weed is in a stage that can be controlled by the herbicide.  
• Make sure that the herbicide is safe to use around the other plants in your garden.  
• Remember, a non-selective herbicide will kill all plants susceptible to the herbicide and not just weeds.

Always, try to minimize the use of pesticides that pollute our waterways. Whenever possible use non-chemical alternatives or less toxic pesticide products . Read product labels carefully and follow instructions on the proper use, storage and disposal.

Mulch

Mulch is an effective way to help prevent weeds in gardens. Mulch can be defined as an applied barrier of some form of organic matter. 

Benefits of Mulching 

• Reduces soil evaporative water losses. 
• Increases soil temperature 
• Controls or suppresses weeds 
• Reduces nutrient leaching during heavy rainfall. 
• May add nutrients to soil (organic mulches)

New plantings should be mulched immediately after planting. Early spring is ideal, as this conserves existing soil moisture during the period when plants are coming out of winter dormancy.  Early season application also prevents many weed seeds from germinating or emerging through the mulch if mulch is applied at recommended depths for the particular material selected. 

Weed the area well before applying mulch.  Then spread mulch over the entire planting area. Keep mulch 2-3 inches away from the base of plants to prevent conditions that encourage diseases or attract rodents. Do not form a "mulch volcano" at the bottom of the plant.  This practice provides shelter for voles in particular, which eat bark and can girdle plants entirely, resulting in plant damage or death. 

Weed Fabric 

Weed fabrics are materials woven of fabric, plastic, or paper, The fabrics are available in various lengths and widths. The materials are usually treated to resist decomposition. The fabric's materials are constructed to allow water and air to move through the fabric. Weed barriers work well on most weeds, although some grasses may grow up through the holes in the fabric. Weed fabric and landscape cloth work best when they are pinned down so that weeds cannot lift up fabric. Moisture, temperature, and weed control can be improved by adding several inches of another organic mulching material on top of the weed fabric/landscape cloth.

Additional Information

Soil Testing Lab - Rutgers University - NJAES

Lamb Brothers System of Container Gardening - University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension

Raised Bed Gardens - University of Minnesota Extension

Soil for Raised Bed Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES

Planning a Vegetable Garden - Rutgers University - NJAES

Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens - Colorado State Extension

New Jersey Weed Gallery - Rutgers University - NJAES

Weed Management - University of Illinois Extension

Weed Control for Vegetable Gardens - University of Georgia Extension

Mulches for Vegetable Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES

New Jersey Invasive Strike Team - Herbicide Use Suggestions - FoHVOS

Integrated Pest Management - UC Davis - SAREP