We are in the middle of winter and winter is the best time to plan for your summer garden. New and experienced gardeners can achieve great results by following some basic recommendations. Here are some suggestions and resources that will guide you as you begin this year's gardening adventure.
Planning
Plan the garden on paper.
Draw a map of the garden layout showing the location and spacing of the crops. When planting, group tall crops (okraand sunflowers) and trellised vines (peas and beans) together on the north side of the garden so they won’t shade shorter plants.
One of the most important reasons to draw out a plan is so that you can use it in subsequent years to make sure you are rotating your crops as you should. Vegetable crops in the same plant family should not be planted in the same area of a garden year after year. See the table below for a list of common plant families.
Make a list of the plants that you enjoy eating and rank them in order of preference.
Keep a journal and record your thoughts and observations throughout the growing seasons. The journal can be your reference point for what worked and what didn't work.
Site Selection
Selecting a site for your garden:
- The site should have good drainage. Avoid putting the garden in an area where rain water accumulates.
- Easy access to water is essential.
- Proximity to your house. Choose a location that is easy to get to and convenient.
- Choose a location with a southern exposure where the plants will get plenty of sun. Most vegetables need eight hours of direct sunlight
- The garden should be as small as possible to reduce the amount of unnecessary work.
Garden Format
If you don’t have space for a vegetable garden or if your present site is too small, consider raising fresh, homegrown vegetables in containers. A window sill, patio, balcony, or doorstep can provide sufficient space for a productive container garden.
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| Container Garden - University of Maryland Extension |
Some suggestions for choosing containers:
- Everyday objects can be recycled and used as containers.
- Avoid dark colored containers, since they create more heat that may damage a young plant's roots.
- Containers made of materials like clay dry out more quickly than containers made of plastic or metal.
- Containers should have holes for draining water, unless they are self-watering.
- Plastics not made for outdoor can become brittle.
Listed below are some recommendations for growing vegetables in containers.
| Vegetable* Light Requirement** | Minimum Container Size | Distance (inches) Between Plants in Containers | Days from Seed to Harvest | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beans, bush FS | 2 gal. | 2-3 | 45-60 | Several plantings, two-week intervals |
| Beets FS/PS | 1/2 gal. | 2-3 | 50-60 | Thin plants when 6 to 8 inches tall |
| Carrots FS/PS | 1 qt. | 2-3 | 65-80 | Several plantings, two-week intervals |
| Cabbage FS/PS | 5 gal. | 12-18 | 65-120 | Requires fertile soil |
| Chard, Swiss FS/PS | 1/2 gal. | 4-6 | 30-40 | Harvest leaves for long yield |
| Cucumbers FS | 5 gal. | 14-18 | 70-80 | Require hot weather, vining types need support |
| Eggplant FS | 5 gal. | 1 plant per container | 75-100 | Requires fertile soil |
| Kale FS/PS | 5 gal. | 10-15 | 55-65 | Harvest leaves |
| Lettuce, leaf PS | 1/2 gal. | 4-6 | 30-35 | Harvest leaves |
| Mustard greens PS | 1/2 gal. | 4-5 | 35-40 | Several plantings, two-week intervals |
| Onions, green FS/PS | 1/2 gal. | 2-3 | 70-100 | Require lots of moisture |
| Peppers, Bell FS | 2 gal. | 1 plant per container | 110-120 | Require hot weather |
| Radishes FS/PS | 1 pint | 1 | 25-35 | Several plantings, weekly intervals |
| Squash, summer FS | 5 gal. | 1 plant per container | 50-60 | Plant only bush type |
| Tomatoes FS | 5 gal. | 1 plant per container | 55-100 | Stake and prune or cage |
| Tomatoes, cherry FS | 1 gal. | 1 plant per container | 55-100 | Helps to stake and prune |
| Turnips FS/PS | 3 gal. | 2-3 | 30-60 | Harvest leaves and roots |
| Vegetable | Spacing (in.) | Transplant or Seeds | Planting Dates* | Avg. Yield per 10 ft. of Row | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| In Row | Btwn. Rows | ||||
| Asparagus | 18 | 60 | Crowns | Perennial | 5 lb. |
| Beans, Lima, bush | 4 | 24 | seed | Ma,Ju,Jl | 6 lb. |
| Beans, Lima, pole | 36 | 36 | seed | Ma,Ju,Jl | 7 lb. |
| Beans, Snap, bush | 4 | 24 | seed | Ma,Ju,Jl | 6 lb. |
| Beans, snap., pole | 36 | 24 | seed | Ma,Ju,Jl | 7 lb. |
| Beets | 3 | 15 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl | 14 lb. |
| Broccoli | 15 | 30 | transplant | Ap,Ma,Jl,Au | 8 heads |
| Brussels Sprouts | 18 | 30 | transplant | Jl | 5 lb. |
| Cabbage | 18 | 24 | transplant | Ap,Jl | 7 heads |
| Cabbage, Chinese | 12 | 18 | seed or trp. | Ap,Jl | 10 heads |
| Carrots | 3 | 15 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl | 10 lb. |
| Cauliflower | 24 | 30 | transplant | Jl | 5 heads |
| Celery | 6 | 18 | transplant | Ma,Ju | 20 stalks |
| Chard, Swiss | 6 | 24 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au | 20 plants |
| Collards | 18 | 24 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl | 10 lb. |
| Corn, Sweet | 12 | 24 | seed | Ma,Ju | 10 ears |
| Cucumbers | 36 | 30 | seed or trp. | Ju,Jl | 8 lb. |
| Eggplant | 30 | 30 | transplant | Ma,Ju | 20 fruit |
| Endive | 12 | 18 | seed or trp. | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au | 10 plants |
| Kale | 15 | 18 | seed | Jl,Au | 24 lb. |
| Kohlrabi | 4 | 15 | seed or trp. | Ap,Ma,Jl,Au | 20 bulb. |
| Leeks | 3 | 15 | transplants | Ap,Ma,Au | 40 plants |
| Lettuce,Leaf,Romaine | 8 | 15 | seed or trp. | Ap,Ma,Au,Se | 15 heads |
| Lettuce, Bibb | 6 | 15 | seed or trp. | Ap,Ma,Au,Se | 20 heads |
| Muskmelons | 36 | 72 | seed or trp. | Ju | 8 melons |
| Mustard Greens | 12 | 15 | seed | Au | 10 lb. |
| Okra | 24 | 36 | seed | Ma,Ju | 100 pods |
| Onions, dry | 4 | 15 | seed,trp.sets | Ap | 10 lb. |
| Parsley | 6 | 15 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju | 20 bunches |
| Parsnips | 3 | 18 | seed | Ap | 10 lb. |
| Peas | 2 | 18 | seed | Mr,Ap | 3 lb. |
| Peppers | 15 | 15 | transplant | Ju | 12 lb. |
| Pumpkins | 48 | 96 | seed | Ju | 4 fruit |
| Radishes | 1 | 12 | seed | Ap,Ma,Ju,Jl,Au,Se | 60 roots |
| Rhubarb | 36 | 48 | crowns | Perennial | 20 stalks |
| Rutabagas | 4 | 18 | seeds | Ap,Jl | 15 lb. |
| Spinach | 4 | 18 | seeds | Ap,Se | 7 lb. |
| Squash, bush | 24 | 48 | seeds or trp. | Ju,Jl | 25 fruit |
| Squash, vine | 36 | 72 | seeds or trp. | Ju | 20 fruits |
| Sweet Potatoes | 12 | 36 | transplants | Ju | 12 lb. |
| Tomatoes | 24 | 36 | transplants | Ma,Ju | 50 lb. |
| Turnips | 3 | 18 | seed | Ap,Jl | 7 lb. |
| Watermelons | 36 | 96 | seed | Ju | 3 melons |
| White Potatoes | 12 | 24 | tubers | Ap | 18 lb. |
*Mr=March; Ap=April; Ma=May; Ju=June; Jl=July; Au=August; Se=September
Many new vegetable varieties of vegetables are constantly being developed. Before purchasing vegetable plants read the label carefully, note the growing conditions, date to maturity, resistance to disease and pests.
| PLANT FAMILY | VEGETABLE |
| Carrot Family (Apiaceae) | carrot, celery, parsley, parsnip |
| Goosefoot Family (Chenopodiaceae) | beet, spinach, Swiss chard |
| Gourd Family (Cucurbitaceae) | cucumber, muskmelon, pumpkin, summer squash, watermelon, winter squash |
| Grass Family (Poaceae) | ornamental carn, popcorn, sweet corn |
| Mallow Family (Malvaceae) | okra |
| Mustard Family (Brassicaceae) | broccoli, Burssels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collard, kale, kohlrabi, mustard greens, radish, rutabaga, turnip |
| Nightshade Family (Solanaceae) | eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato |
| Onion Family (Alliaceae) | chives, garlic, leek, onion |
| Pea Family (Fabaceae) | bush bean, kidney bean, lima bean, pea, pole bean, soybean |
| Sunflower Family (Asteraceae) | endive, lettuce, sunflower |
Test and Prepare the Soil
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| Example of a soil test kit |
Soil testing is an easy, quick and accurate method to determine the relative acidity of the soil. The test will also measure the level of some essential nutrients (phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, sulfur, manganese, copper, and zinc) needed for healthy plant growth. Samples for planting and gardening projects should be submitted several weeks before you plan to plant. This will allow plenty of time for you to get the results back and if necessary, amend the soil before planting. The results from the test will aid you in plant selection, soil preparation, and fertilization. The test results will help you avoid overfertilization, which can stimulate excessive plant growth and increase the likelihood of some diseases. Applying the correct grade and amount of fertilizer can also help reduce pollution of our water supplies and allow you to have healthier, more productive plants.
Irrigation
Generally speaking, most vegetable crops grow best if they receive about an inch of rainfall per week through the growing season. In a season with regular rainfall, supplemental irrigation may not be necessary except when first transplanting young plants into the garden. However, in a dry year, access to irrigation may be needed. Many gardeners irrigate overhead (with a hose and nozzle attachment or with a sprinkler system) or using drip irrigation (using soaker hoses). Drip irrigation is the most efficient method for irrigation. In drip irrigation systems the water is slowly released at the garden's surface through plastic tubing with tiny holes. Reliable and convenient access to a source of water is critical to the success of your garden.
Factsheet from the Entomological Society of America
Weed Control
Weeds are a constant problem for all gardeners. Weeds compete with the plants in your garden for nutrients and resources. Weeds can also introduce insect pests and diseases into the garden. Effective weed control is essential for ensuring that your garden will have healthy and productive plants. Weeds can be managed with mechanical, chemical, mulch and weed fabric.
Mechanical
You can control weeds by cultivation and periodically hand pulling the weeds throughout the growing season. Begin your control efforts early in the growing season when the weeds are small and easier to eradicate. If cultivating avoid deep tillage since it brings more weeds to the surface and can cause the soil to dry out more rapidly.
Chemical
Organic herbicides (pesticides used to control weeds) and non-organic herbicides can also be used to control the weeds in your garden.
There are basically two types of herbicides: pre-emergent and post-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides control the germinating seeds before plants emerge from the soil. They won’t control weeds that have already emerged and are growing in the garden. Post-emergent herbicides are used to control weeds that have already emerged. The younger the weed, the better chance that a post-emergence herbicide will work. In addition to herbicides being pre or post-emergent, herbicides can also be non-selective and selective. Herbicides that kill most plants they contact are called non-selective. While herbicides that control some kinds of plants but not others are called selective herbicides.
A few things to remember
- Always identify the weed you are trying to control.
- Check that the herbicide label lists the weed you are trying to control.
- Verify that the weed is in a stage that can be controlled by the herbicide.
- Make sure that the herbicide is safe to use around the other plants in your garden.
- Remember, a non-selective herbicide will kill all plants susceptible to the herbicide and not just weeds.
Always, try to minimize the use of pesticides that pollute our waterways. Whenever possible use non-chemical alternatives or less toxic pesticide products . Read product labels carefully and follow instructions on the proper use, storage and disposal.
Mulch
Mulch is an effective way to help prevent weeds in gardens. Mulch can be defined as an applied barrier of some form of organic matter.
Benefits of Mulching- Reduces soil evaporative water losses.
- Increases soil temperature
- Controls or suppresses weeds
- Reduces nutrient leaching during heavy rainfall.
- May add nutrients to soil (organic mulches)
Weed Fabric
Weed fabrics are materials woven of fabric, plastic, or paper, The fabrics are available in various lengths and widths. The materials are usually treated to resist decomposition. The fabric's materials are constructed to allow water and air to move through the fabric. Weed barriers work well on most weeds, although some grasses may grow up through the holes in the fabric. Weed fabric and landscape cloth work best when they are pinned down so that weeds cannot lift up fabric. Moisture, temperature, and weed control can be improved by adding several inches of another organic mulching material on top of the weed fabric/landscape cloth.
Soil Testing Lab - Rutgers University - NJAES
Lamb Brothers System of Container Gardening - University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension
Raised Bed Gardens - University of Minnesota Extension
Soil for Raised Bed Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES
Planning a Vegetable Garden - Rutgers University - NJAES
Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens - Colorado State Extension
New Jersey Weed Gallery - Rutgers University - NJAES
Weed Management - University of Illinois Extension
Weed Control for Vegetable Gardens - University of Georgia Extension
Mulches for Vegetable Gardens - Rutgers University - NJAES
New Jersey Invasive Strike Team - Herbicide Use Suggestions - FoHVOS
Integrated Pest Management - UC Davis - SAREP
